An Arizona City With A Controversial Past Has Reinvented Itself As An Outdoor Recreation Getaway

The following article includes mentions of domestic abuse and sexual assault. 

Tucked into the desert, about 50 miles south of Zion National Park, Colorado City is a gorgeous destination with a complicated past — and an increasingly vibrant present. In recent years, the town has been reinventing itself as an outdoor recreation oasis, a transition that's pretty much a no-brainer given its magnificent scenery: endless desert vistas, fabulously textured red rock cliffs, and access to some of the Southwest's top slot canyons. New businesses have opened, including a supermarket, pharmacy, and even a distillery, as residents work to revamp the local economy and culture.

Colorado City's past helps explain that transformation. The town was long one of the primary settlements of the Fundamentalist Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints, or FLDS, a group that split from the mainstream Mormon church after it abandoned polygamy in the late 1800s. Away from the prying eyes of outsiders, members quietly constructed a polygamous, semi-communal society that seemed to thrive — at least for a while. That history drew wider attention as criminal cases involving some FLDS leaders came to light. In 2011, leader Warren Jeffs was sentenced to life in prison for sexually assaulting two teenage girls. Another leader, Samuel Bateman, was sentenced in 2024 to 50 years for kidnapping and sex trafficking minors.

Since then, locals have been doing what they can to purge the city's dark past. Some members moved away; others left the sect but stayed in Colorado City, striving to heal old wounds and rebuild their lives. Former FLDS spokesperson Willie Jessop told PBS, "What you see is the outcome of a massive amount of internal turmoil and change within people to reset themselves. We call it 'life after Jeffs' — and, frankly, it's a great life."

Colorado City's location at the Utah-Arizona border works in its favor as a destination. It sits within driving distance of some of the Southwest's most popular destinations, including the North Rim (about 3.5 hours) and South Rim (about four hours) of Grand Canyon National Park, as well as Zion (about an hour). This means that hotels and campgrounds around Colorado City are well-positioned to receive visitors passing through the area, especially campers, who have far fewer options for dispersed camping around Zion National Park due to a decision by the Bureau of Land Management.

Local entrepreneurs have responded to the opportunity by establishing glamping resorts in and around Colorado City. At Desert Sage Retreat, guests can choose from tiny cabins, safari tents, or covered wagons, with amenities including private bathrooms, outdoor showers, a stocked communal kitchen, and even a Western-style saloon and six-person sauna. A Tripadvisor raved: "This is the cutest gem!! After we stayed near Zion/Springdale, we wanted an easy stay on this side of the mountains ahead of the drive to Grand Canyon National Park." Other highly rated glamping resorts include Zion Glamping Adventures and Zion View Camping in nearby Hildale, as well as Camp Land Beyond Zion and Cane Beds Corral in nearby Cane Beds. Cane Beds Corral, opened in 2020, stands out for its thoughtful touches — from luxurious linens to handmade furniture and showers designed to resemble slot canyons – and positive guest reviews.

Hungry guests won't need to worry about foraging for cactus fruits in the desert. The Colorado City area has solid options for food and drink, including the Blue Agave Mexican Kitchen, which offers Happy Hour and karaoke alongside tacos and other south-of-the-border dishes. Thirsty adventurers can steer their steeds over to the Water Canyon Winery in Hildale, which also operates a casual fine-dining restaurant with a quaint patio overlooking a working vineyard – an unexpected sight in the desert.

Zion National Park is known worldwide for its red rock views, challenging trails, and one of America's most scenic drives. But there are plenty of adventures to be had right around Colorado City, minus Zion's crowds. Several glamping resorts arrange tours for guests. Desert Sage Retreat organizes customized ATV tours to secret canyons and little-known viewpoints, while Zion Glamping Adventures runs two- to six-hour guided hikes and horseback riding tours to petroglyph-streaked cliffs and natural rock amphitheaters. 

Those who prefer self-guided exploration can embark on several hikes right near town. One not-to-miss hike is the 6.8-mile Water Canyon Trail, which begins 4.4 miles north of Colorado City. This rugged, steep trail follows a river up a scenic canyon into the Canaan Mountain Wilderness, past waterfalls and rock formations like hoodoos, pinnacles, and domes. Nearby, the 8.8-mile Squirrel Canyon Trail offers a longer option. The two can be combined into a loop or linked with additional routes in the wilderness area, though experienced hikers note that strong navigation skills are essential.

For those with the time and inclination, many other hidden-gem wilderness areas await discovery around Colorado City. Pipe Spring National Monument, an important Native American historic site, lies 20 miles to the southeast, near the western edge of the Kaibab Indian Reservation and Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness. Farther east is the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument, home to the lesser-known fiery slot canyon known as Paria Canyon. The natural wonders go on for days around here. 

If you or someone you know may be the victim of child abuse, please contact the Childhelp National Child Abuse Hotline at 1-800-4-A-Child (1-800-422-4453) or contact their live chat services.