Forget The Caribbean, Retire To This Coastal South American City With Walkable Beaches And Fresh Seafood

As life expectancy continues to rise, retirement is becoming a much longer phase of life than in previous generations. Beyond the inescapable financial considerations, a slower pace of life, access to reliable healthcare and social benefits, political stability, and favorable year-round weather conditions are all factors prompting an increasingly higher number of Americans at or near retirement age to consider spending their later years in another country. While rankings such as the Natixis Global Retirement Index (GRI) continue to favor countries like Norway, Ireland, and Switzerland, many Americans are increasingly turning to closer-to-home alternatives. Besides the incorporated territory of the U.S. Virgin Islands, or the evergreen California, a lesser-known destination is steadily gaining popularity among retirees: Salinas, Ecuador. 

This small yet well-established coastal city on the Ecuadorian Pacific coast, in the Province of Santa Elena, is often referred to as the country's "capital of sun and beach" (or, as some like to call it, the "Ecuadorian Miami "), and presents everything you might expect from one of the country's most popular beach holiday destinations. The bay is lined by a row of squared high-rise residential buildings,  while the lively waterfront promenade (the Malecón) is bustling with small bars and restaurants, where you'll probably eat some of the best seafood of your life. 

While the town sees thousands of domestic travelers flocking in during the high season (approximatively, from the second half of December to April), it stays alive and well also during quieter periods. The resident population lingers around 35,000 residents, including a small, but established international community of a few hundred people – primarily U.S. and Canadian citizens. A packed calendar of social events and meetups, such as those organized by the Chamber of Commerce,  help English-speaking residents to connect, interact, and integrate into the local community.

Your "new life" in Salinas begins in Guayaquil, the country's largest city and primary gateway to the Ecuadorian Pacific coast and the breathtaking Galápagos Islands (which is also one of the best places to swim with sea turtles). From José Joaquín de Olmedo International Airport, the coast is approximately a two-hour drive. You can take advantage of regular bus services too. The town is also served by the General Ulpiano Páez Airport,  which primarily accommodates domestic and private flights. 

The adoption of the U.S. dollar as Ecuador's official currency eliminates daunting exchange-rate conversions, while still offering a noticeable monetary advantage in terms of everyday expenses, including access to high-quality healthcare (healthcare is among the nine main risks of retiring abroad). The town is also relatively small, and you can go (almost) everywhere on your own two feet. The Malecón is just about a 15-minute walk from the shops and restaurants of Avenida Carlos Espinoza. The busier areas are generally considered safe, even at night — at least according to both locals and visitors on social media discussions. 

Salinas has two main beaches, divided by the Salinas Yacht Club — Playa de Salinas to the north and Chipipe Beach to the south. The former is a family-friendly stretch of sand with activities for all ages. It presents direct access to the town center, and is described by visitors on TripAdvisor as "one of the most beautiful beaches" in the province. A short 20-minute walk away along the Malecón lies the quieter, Chipipe Beach. Both offer a variety of water sports, including snorkeling, waterskiing, and paddling. Intermediate and advanced surfers flock to more challenging waves at La Lobería and Punta Carnero. Unlike the more central beaches, reaching them generally requires a car.

What we eat can have a profound impact on our physical and mental well-being. Luckily, Salinas offers plenty of high quality, fresh, and local foods (similar to another popular South American retirement destination boasting incredible food, Aquadilla, Puerto Rico). The town benefits from immediate proximity to fishing communities along Ecuador's coast, ensuring a steady supply of fresh fish, shrimp, and shellfish, mainly sold at local seafood markets. These are the main ingredients of traditional Ecuadorian coastal dishes like ceviche de camarón (made with cooked shrimp marinated in lemon juice and mixed with onion, cilantro, and diced tomato), and encocado de pescado (white fish stew, cooked in a rich coconut sauce).

Some of the best seafood restaurants in town are concentrated along the Malecón and nearby streets. Among the most popular options is Cevichería Lojanita. This "local institution" boasts a wide selection of ceviches in different styles, including ceviche de concha (made with shellfish) and ceviche de langosta. You can also opt for a variety of à la carte mains, such as arroz con pescado al vapor (boiled rice with steamed fish and veggies), and churrasco (steak with French fries and a fried egg). If you want to enjoy a hearty meal closer to Playa Chipipe, opt for Cevicheria de HUGO Salinas. It boasts over 2,100 4.5-star Google Reviews and is often praised for its generous portions and reasonable prices. 

For an affordable lunch, try the popular "almuerzo" format (i.e. a soup, a main dish served with boiled rice or plantain, and a small dessert). You can also take advantage of the small bakeries (panaderias) lining the streets of downtown, specializing in traditional Ecuadorian snacks like empanadas and pan de yuca (fluffy bread made with flour, eggs, and cheese).