My Favorite Portland Neighborhood For Riverfront Parks, Eclectic Bars, And Standout Restaurants

Portland's hip, bustling pockets are plentiful, but few are as unique as St. Johns, a neighborhood I lived in for six months when first relocating to the city. It only took me 17 minutes to reach downtown by car, yet this 11-square-mile enclave felt like my personal riverfront escape on the Oregon-Washington state border, lined by the scenic Willamette and Columbia rivers. When I wanted to trade tranquil nature for urban activity, I'd go to Lombard Street, St. Johns' lively downtown strip bustling with bars and restaurants.

If St. Johns sounds like a completely separate city from Portland proper, that's because it once was. According to historical records, the town, founded in the 1850s by James John, was a contending economic powerhouse to the Rose City. St. Johns officially incorporated into Portland in 1915. However, it still maintains its unique, slightly gritty aesthetic with weathered mid-century signage and architectural landmarks at every turn.

By the time I arrived, the neighborhood was a mix of old relics and new, burgeoning businesses that brought quirky Portland charm to the once-separate town. During my stay in the blue-collar-turned-metropolitan neighborhood, I discovered that St. Johns has a little something for everyone. Whether you prefer serene strolls in wooded parks or late hours belting your favorite tunes in karaoke bars, this neighborhood is a must-visit for gaining a true sense of what being a Portlander is really like, from past to present.

St. Johns boasts natural beauty year-round and features an underrated region of parks that deserves more attention than it gets. My personal go-to is Cathedral Park. It's a waterfront gathering point for exploring the banks of the Willamette River, host of the annual Cathedral Park Jazz Festival, and a lovely place to people and pet-watch along the Cathedral Park Loop Trail. Cathedral Park is nestled under the historic St. Johns Bridge, a gothic-inspired, epic viewpoint that became my favorite spot for removing my shoes and wading on the shoreline.

For longer strolls through towering Douglas fir trees, I head to Pier Park. The 85-acre plot is full of shaded trails with picnic tables and shelters along the way, as well as a seasonal pool. I'm a big fan of the park's scenic disc golf course, the only one in Portland proper. It feels more densely wooded and immersive than other city courses I've played at. I recommend that hikers keep an eye out for airborne frisbees while they tackle Pier Park's trails, as walking and disc golfing paths often intersect. 

Kelley Point Park sits at the northernmost tip of the St. Johns peninsula — 90 acres of forest give way to a beach where the Columbia River forks into the Willamette. It served as my retreat-like hideaway, less busy than Cathedral Park. Kelly Point is a safe space for wildlife where I spotted species like ospreys, eagles, and geese on its shores. St. Johns is also quite close to my favorite green space in Portland, Washington Park. This outdoor complex is home to a Japanese garden, the Oregon Zoo, and the living museum of trees nestled in the arboretum's 2.4-mile loop trail.

There are plenty of well-known, charming, culture-filled neighborhoods in Portland. But St. Johns is as active a hub, and I spent most of my days on the highly walkable Lombard Street strip, lined with local restaurants and eclectic bars. For a general survey of the neighborhood, I recommend St. Johns Art Walk, a recurring event that offers the opportunity to peruse some art and discover small businesses. After talking to the neighborhood's residents at this event, I felt equipped with a list of must-try spots, so take advantage of it and mingle with locals if it lines up with your visit.

My top dining recommendation is Leisure Public House, which serves as part bar, part eatery, and part gathering space. At this casual joint, I enjoyed a hot-pressed prosciutto sandwich, a well-balanced mezcal cocktail, and the chatter of a crochet meetup on their spacious back patio. For daytime bites, my favorite eatery in St. Johns is Wonderwood Springs, a fantastical cafe and hybrid mini-golf space filled with original art by resident Mike Bennett. With Portland pouring some of the best coffee in America, this is a great local gem for a cup of joe and a breakfast burrito.

As for when the sun sets, start your late-night pub crawl with the St. Johns Theater & Pub, which, in my experience, has the most beautiful patio in the neighborhood, with affordable, regional ciders and beers. For top-notch bar ambiance, Havalina is the best, with its hip, tropical decor, a small concert stage, and a picnic-bench-filled back patio perfect for group gatherings. This spot also plays live music on a regular basis and hosts other special events, including open-mic karaoke.