Alaska's Once-Thriving Mining Town Is Now An Almost Abandoned Remote Gateway To America's Largest National Park

Near the Canadian border in southeast Alaska, the unassuming town of McCarthy offers a one-of-a-kind getaway. Once a bustling, "sin city" boomtown, it is now a small, charming community that feels frozen in another time. There are no cars, cell towers, or stoplights, just a cozy atmosphere set against the backdrop of the Alaskan mountains.

McCarthy, nestled in the heart of Wrangell-St. Elias National Park and Preserve, is a former mining town established in the early 1900s. It came into existence due to the strict rules of its sister town, Kennicott, located just 5 miles away. After it was discovered that the area was rich in copper, Kennicott was founded as a company town that banned gambling and drinking. In response, McCarthy emerged nearby, becoming an entertainment hub for miners, offering saloons, hotels, and a red-light district. The mines closed in 1938, and most residents of both towns eventually left. At its peak, McCarthy had about 800 residents and was the largest city in Alaska. It is difficult to ascertain the area's population today as there are conflicting and outdated reports, but the figures lie anywhere between 2 and 30 year-round residents. 

Several buildings are listed on the National Register of Historic Places, including Ma Johnson's Historical Hotel. Built in the 1920s, the former boarding house now operates as a historic hotel and living museum. Visitors can also learn more about the area's past at the McCarthy-Kennecott Historical Museum, located inside a former railroad depot.

One of McCarthy's biggest draws is its proximity to outdoor adventure. It is located in the heart of America's largest and most underrated national park, which offers 13.2 million acres of mountains and wilderness. The park offers everything from leisurely sightseeing to thrilling adventures. One popular destination is the Root Glacier, where visitors can hike on the ice, try ice climbing, or explore waterfalls and deep caves. The glacier is accessible via the Root Glacier Trail, a 4.4-mile round-trip hike that begins near the abandoned ghost town of Kennecott.

From McCarthy, visitors can also catch planes into the park's backcountry for hiking, basecamping, or rafting trips, with both guided and self-guided options available. Animal lovers should keep their eyes peeled for the abundant wildlife, as animals like grizzly bears and moose call the entire park home. For those who want to experience the true scale of this sprawling Alaskan wilderness, take a flightseeing tour. Wrangle Mountain Air, for instance, offers visitors three tour options from McCarthy that provide panoramic views of giant glaciers, vast icy landscapes, and the highest mountain peaks in North America.

Getting to McCarthy is all part of the experience, and visitors can either arrive by driving or by flying in. For those who choose to drive in, the most straightforward option is to drive to the overlooked town of Chitina, another excellent gateway to Wrangell-St.Elias. From Anchorage, that's about a four-and-a-half-hour drive. In Chitina, you'll find the start of McCarthy Road, a 60-mile-long stretch that will take you to the footbridge into McCarthy in about two hours. The road is notoriously rough, and used to have a sign stating that drivers were entering "The Worst Road in Alaska." Though improvements have been made over the years, drivers should still expect a slow but scenic trip.

Along the way, you'll cross the historic Kuskulana Bridge, stretching 525 feet over a steep canyon and the rushing Kuskulana River. The bridge was constructed in only two months during the winter of 1910, and although driving over it can be daunting, it is much safer now than it once was, since guardrails were added in 1988. Also, keep in mind that along McCarthy Road, there is no cell service for most of the route. Once you reach the footbridge, you can either walk or take a shuttle into town, about half a mile away. For those who want to cut down on driving, you can catch a flight into McCarthy from Anchorage, Chitina, or Glennallen. With this option, visitors get a mini flightseeing tour of the landscape upon arrival, priming them for all of the adventures waiting in this small town.