Canada's Most Pristine Gulf Island Is A Serene, Secluded Hideaway For Scenic Nature And Outdoor Fun

Canada's jewel-like Gulf Islands are a rugged playground for travelers willing to brave the windswept waters of the Salish Sea to reach this isolated but ravishingly beautiful archipelago. Reachable only by ferryboat, floatplane, or private vessel, the Gulf Islands are nonetheless a beloved tourist destination. Still, one of the most beautiful Islands of all, Saturna Island, weeds out a lot of casual tourist traffic by being even harder to reach, with no direct ferry service from the mainland. With over 40% of its land occupied by a preserve, Saturna is a pristine, scenic gem, offering endless beauty and solitude to those few who make the effort to reach its shores.

The island's year-round population numbers around 350, so there is little in the way of infrastructure, aside from a few tourist-friendly businesses like the charming general store, which houses the Saturna Cafe. The ferry dock also has a dining option, the Lighthouse Pub, which one Google reviewer calls the "best place on the island for sunsets." Local winery, Sage Haven Vineyards, offers tastings and food at its onsite bistro, which serves handmade pizzas with fresh local ingredients in a truly memorable outdoor setting with waterfront views. The vineyard also offers lively daytime entertainment that ranges from concerts and harvest festivals to drag brunches.

The Arbutus Point Campground is walking distance from the ferry terminal, which is handy if you are traveling on foot (or arriving by seaplane), as it's conveniently located near bike and kayak rentals. Aside from camping, the island's other cozy accommodations are available year-round. With no resort hotels, staying here in one of the small rental cottages, cabins, or bed and breakfast inns lets you feel like a local.

Nearly half the island's 12-square-mile land mass is covered by the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve (not to be confused with the U.S.'s Gulf Islands National Seashore straddling the coasts of Florida and Mississippi). Located directly between Vancouver and Victoria, B.C., Saturna Island nonetheless receives less rainfall than either city, boasting Canada's only example of the Mediterranean climate. 

The island's East Point Regional Park is a thin spit of land jutting out into the ocean, is ringed with swirling sandstone rock formations, and is a superb land-based whale-watching spot. Water rushing over an underwater ledge creates a large submerged waterfall that churns up plankton from the deep, stirring migrating orcas into a feeding frenzy. Harbor seals and porpoises are also common sights, and recently, humpback whales have been showing up after being absent for many years. Near East Point, hike up Mount Warburton Pike's 3.8-mile Brown Ridge Trail for panoramic views of the Gulf Islands stretching off as far as you can see. "One of the most beautiful views I've ever seen," one hiker wrote on Tripadvisor. "The deep quiet amplified the magnificence of this place."

One of the best ways to see this wild part of the planet is by kayak. You can rent one for a few hours, but circumnavigating Saturna Island by water is a classic Canadian ocean kayaking excursion. The trip takes around two to three days, with boat-in camping along the way. If you aren't sure about taking the trip alone, KayakingSkills Saturna Island offers guided tours.

Unlike the chic luxuries of the under-the-radar Galiano Island, just a short ferry hop from Vancouver, B.C.'s Tsawwassen Ferry Terminal, Saturna Island is off the beaten path, requiring at least one ferry transfer, making it one of the least-visited of the Gulf Islands. The shortest route to the island may be to board at Tsawwassen, stop at Galiano, then change ferries at Maine Island. Another equally circuitous route starts at Swartz Bay north of Victoria, B.C. Still, getting to Saturna Island is literally half the fun, as the ferry rides through the Salish Sea are some of the most spectacular in the Pacific Northwest. So rather than finding the shortest route over water, treat your ferry journey like a cruise and enjoy the ride. For a truly epic excursion, you can even set out from Seattle, taking a ferry through the wildly scenic San Juan Islands to Victoria, then carry on from there as described.

The most direct way to get to Saturna Island is to arrive by floatplane from Richmond (near Vancouver). Twice-daily flights, one in the morning and one in the evening, take just 20 minutes, dropping you off at the ferry dock, and fares are $215 each way, as of this writing. 

Once you're on-island, you have several fun options for getting around. There is a reservable shuttle service operated by volunteers from the Lion's Club, so you can explore car-free (and glean some friendly local knowledge). The terrain is hilly, which is good to keep in mind if you plan on biking, or you can make your stay a little easier by renting an e-bike.