Between Edinburgh And Newcastle Upon Tyne Is A Charming Coastal Town With A Beach, Fishing, And Fresh Seafood
Most people visiting Scotland tend to flock to the sweeping castle and romantic cobbled streets of Edinburgh or hike around the lochs and peaks of the Highlands farther north. Yet Berwickshire, in the Scottish Borders, is filled with tranquil sandy beaches, rocky fishing coves, and wind-swept, scenic spots where you can enjoy some of the country's freshest seafood. A location that features all of the above is the quiet and often overlooked town of Eyemouth, conveniently located between two of the largest cities in this part of Britain. Eyemouth makes for an ideal day trip from either Edinburgh, only about an hour's drive away (about 50 miles north), or Newcastle upon Tyne, reachable in under an hour and a half, driving roughly 75 miles south, past the border between Scotland and England.
This tiny town perched on the North Sea shore is ideal for travelers seeking a tranquil seaside destination with enchanting stretches of coast, a few cultural spots, and even natural walking trails to enjoy nearby. However, Eyemouth's standout charm lies in its maritime heritage. It owes its name to the Eye Water River, which flows through town, and Eyemouth has centuries of history as a fishing settlement. Visitors can still enjoy fresh catch of the day at places like The Ship Bar & Restaurant right on the waterfront, or try their hand at fishing from the town shores. Regardless of whether keen anglers are looking for a cozy pier or a more rugged setting where to fish undisturbed, Eyemouth has both.
Enjoy the beautiful beach and maritime heritage in Eyemouth
Just north of Eyemouth's rustic harbor is Eyemouth Beach, a sandy stretch ideal for walking or swimming. It's worth noting that the beach has no lifeguard service, but that does not discourage the locals from wild swimming, even at extremely cold temperatures. Tide conditions also result in small tidal pools along the harbor, where you might spot crabs and starfish. Especially during the summer season, seals can be spotted close to the harbor, or just off the coast. Not only does Eyemouth have a pretty beach, but it is also a good spot for those who want to check out the underwater wonders. Together with narrow gullies and rocky coves covered in seaweed, Eyemouth's coastal conditions make it a popular destination for snorkeling and diving.
Adding to that, you are unlikely to find the same crowds that gather around trendy coastal spots like East Neuk, the picturesque Scottish kingdom where Edinburgh residents escape the crowds. As a matter of fact, the wider region is somewhat off the beaten path, and offers some of the most untouched beaches sandwiched between Scotland and England.
It's also worth heading inland to get a taste of the town's heritage and history, going as far back as the 13th century. You can easily spend a whole day exploring the town. Start from the Eyemouth Museum within the historic Auld Kirk, where you can learn about the town's quirky stories like the "Fisher Lassies", and about the 1881 Great East Coast Fishing Disaster. End your visit at the Old Coble House, a currently unused historic building that once functioned as a boat depot, and one that the community is trying to restore to its former glory.
Go fishing and enjoy fresh seafood galore in Eyemouth
It may take about an hour to drive to Eyemouth from the Royal Mile in Edinburgh, incidentally one of Rick Steves' favorite sightseeing walks in Europe, but the pace of this small town offers a different experience from Scotland's bustling cities in the central belt. Fishing spots in Eyemouth are easy to find and access. According to local anglers on the Scottish Sea Fishing Facebook page, one place is near Eyemouth Holiday Park, close to the Eyemouth Heath View cliffs, which provides a rugged, rocky terrain for solitary fishing. Another laid-back option is the jetty in Eyemouth Harbor itself, ideal for those looking for sandy, clear, snag-free conditions. While the former two are reportedly good for catching flatfish, coleys, and colorful wrasse, east-facing Gunsgreen Point is a popular pick to find mackerel, coalfish, and pollock. Scotland does not require a rod license for sea fishing, as long as it is done for recreational purposes in authorized areas. Fisheries Management Scotland's website and Angling Scotland are good resources for updated maps across the country.
While eating the day's catch might appeal to some visitors, Eyemouth is a big enough town to have a few restaurant, bistro, and cafe options. Unsurprisingly, seafood is its main star, with places like The Contented Sole serving pub food with a fresh twist from the sea (think local haddock and chips), located right by the harbor, or chic Oblò Bar and Bistro, cooking up more refined Scottish and European bistro-style savory bites. If fishing is not your top interest, but culinary delights, camping, and dramatic castles by the coast are, it is worth stretching your trip further south to the neighboring county of Northumberland in England, where the scenic Bamburgh Castle and beach are located.