This Darling Welsh Market Town Is Filled With Antique Shops, Fine Art, And Excellent Eats
In the middle of Narberth, Wales, the houses come in all different colors: deep red, baby blue, mossy green, lavender, and so many others. They lock together, side by side, in a fraternal way; the long rows of buildings accent the curving streets. Most of these dwellings look timeless, with their paned windows and individual chimneys; each would seem as fitting in a photograph from 1900 as it looks in person today. This town is just darling to behold.
Like so many small towns in the United Kingdom, Narberth centers on its High Street, where you'll find a queue of specialty shops like the Bargain Box discount store and the Tom Hughes boutique clothier. Narberth has long served as an inland market town in the southwestern U.K. county of Pembrokeshire, and this kind of small-business retail has existed here for centuries.
Yet Narberth is known for another facet: fine art. There are several galleries scattered through the central village: The Golden Sheaf is an art purveyor with an eclectic display of paintings, sculptures, household wares, and fashion accessories. Narberth Pottery is a studio and storefront dedicated to a family of ceramic artists. And Span Arts is a multidisciplinary art center that's designed to empower marginalized people and showcases visual arts, theatre, music, and literary works. If you're traveling through Pembrokeshire in search of Welsh villages — such as this coastal favorite with sandy beaches, sea views, and a chance to spot dolphins — Narberth is a colorful place to stop, in more ways than one.
The thousand-year-old charms of Narberth
The town of Narberth dates back to the Middle Ages, evidenced by the impressive castle ruins (pictured below) on the southern edge of town. This wealth of history is reflected in its antique shops: Malthouse Antiques is a sizable emporium full of furniture, decor, vintage clothing, and other time-honored treasures, representing 25 different dealers. It's located right next door to The Golden Sheaf, making this hub convenient for shoppers. Housed on the same block is Narberth Antiques & Interiors, a standalone purveyor of decor and vintage garments.
Despite its modest population (about 2,300), Narberth is home to an impressive range of restaurants. Traveling foodies will probably veer toward The Barley Gastrobar, with its lip-smacking steaks, seafood, and libations. It's hard to resist a curry at Masala Indian and Bangladeshi Cuisine, which serves up subcontinental favorites and is open every day of the week. Or you could gorge yourself at Get Stuffed Pizza Co., a classic pie-and-pasta Italian joint. All of these places are within easy walking distance of each other, and if you head to the north end of High Street, you'll find a smattering of traditional pubs as well. Just make sure you know which ones are wet pubs and which ones are brew pubs (and what the difference is).
Getting to Narberth and where to stay
For foreign visitors, the most pleasurable transport to Narberth may be by rail. You can hop one train at Paddington Station in London to Newport, then a second directly to Narberth; the total journey may take as little as four and a half hours. Driving should take the same amount of time, with the added bonus of stopping anywhere you like along Wales' rural coast. Narberth is a great pit stop before continuing on to Pembrokeshire Coast National Park, home to a coastal town with historic charm, gorgeous beaches, and tasty eats.
You'll find a handful of lodgings in the middle of Narberth, including the playfully elegant Plas Hyfryd Hotel and The Star, a "micro pub with rooms" right on Market Square. Summers are generally cool, with average highs of 64 degrees Fahrenheit, while winters tend to be mild, with temperatures rarely falling below freezing. This being the U.K., rain is pretty common throughout the year, so make sure to bring your mac (raincoat) and wellies (waterproof boots).