The 'Ancient Capital Of Wales' Is A Scenic Town Outside A National Park With Quaint Shops And A Vibrant Culture
If you're eager to unravel the long and enthralling past of the Welsh nation, to uncover tales of rebel princes and legendary kings, and get a hit of wild Celtic backcountry on the side, then you could do a whole load worse than looking north to the town of Machynlleth. Not only does it host one of the most totemic locations in regional history, but it's also perched right on the southern edge of Wales' largest national park.
The annals say that local hero, Owain Glyndŵr, now hailed as the last native prince of Wales for his feats fighting the English back in the Middle Ages, declared Machynlleth his capital in the year 1404. You can even set foot inside the landmark building where Glyndŵr assembled his parliament. It now hosts an extensive exhibition related to the prince, including a series of more modern artworks that tell the tale of the military victories he achieved in the Machynlleth region. Just steps from that is the buzzy heart of the town, complete with artisan coffee joints and antiques shops. And a short drive beyond lie the soaring mountains of Eryri (more on those later).
If you're tempted, getting here means venturing into the very heart of Wales. Be ready to drive close to 3 hours if you plan on coming up from Wales's only international airport down in Cardiff. It's actually quicker to come over from the John Lennon International Airport in Liverpool, which is roughly 2 hours and 15 minutes away, on a route that takes you via Chester, arguably the most architecturally beautiful city in the UK! There are also regular train services to Machynlleth from both Birmingham and the charming Mid Wales town of Aberystwyth.
Hit Machynlleth for shops and café culture
Don't go thinking that this is some sleepy backcountry outpost. It's far from it. Simply step onto Heol Maengwyn, the town's energetic main drag, and you'll soon see that Machynlleth buzzes with life — everything from leather artisans to bookstores and health food purveyors finds a home there. Plus, this one's stayed true to its medieval, market-town roots, hosting a Wednesday get-together of local craft sellers, cheese makers, and more under the gaze of the town's historic Victorian-era clock tower – a tradition that's been going for more than seven centuries.
Machynlleth is something of a hub for antiques shopping to boot. Hagglers and lovers of all things vintage should dive into The Emporium, where taxidermy animals, intricate porcelain works, and vintage mahogany side tables alike cram into the nooks and crannies. Avid readers might prefer to while away their time at Coch-Y-Bonddu Books, which is just around the corner. In true, quirky Machynlleth style, they offer rare editions of now-discontinued publications on sports, hunting, and falconry.
When the appetite starts to growl, whether from all that Welsh history or too much retail therapy, nip over to Hermit Crab Coffee, a 4.9-star-rated establishment that proudly serves artisan beans roasted in Wales alongside casual grub like sourdough toasties and bagels. Or, there's Gwen, at the other end of the culinary spectrum. There, you get highly curated tasting menus that fuse Spanish and Mesoamerican cooking, all grounded in local produce — Dyfi lobster with Galician bone marrow, anyone?
Machynlleth the mountain town
Machynlleth is technically in Mid Wales, but lovers of the great outdoors often come here because the epic natural wonders of North Wales begin just a quick hop, skip, and a jump (read: 20-minute drive) outside of town. In fact, the boundary of the adventure haven that is the Eryri National Park straddles the River Dyfi literally on the edge of Machynlleth itself.
Cross that, and you'll find yourself in the heart of South Eryri. The towering height of Yr Wyddfa, Wales's biggest mountain, and the tourist haven of quaint Beddgelert village, still lie over an hour's drive north of here, so this region tends to be less-visited than other parts of the park. Nonetheless, it holds some sublime treasures, like 2,930-foot-high Cader Idris, a legendary mountain with multiple trails to its summit. One such route — the steep and challenging Minfordd Path — begins at Dôl Idris, a car park that's just 15 minutes' drive out of Machynlleth's center.
Go just a little further north, but still under 30 minutes from town, and you'll enter the gaping Mawddach Estuary by way of Dolgellau, a place where black-stone cottages rub shoulders with pubs under the shadow of the peaks. The 9-mile Mawddach Trail links up the whole area there. It makes for easy walking, and is suitable for bikes and strollers alike, as it wiggles alongside the water's edge to offer views of the marshes and the mountains on all sides.