An Hour From Fargo Is North Dakota's Charming Gateway City With Local Eats, A Cute B&B, And Lake Fun

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With a population of a little under 140,000 people according to World Population Review, Fargo is North Dakota's largest city — by far — which is why it has an international airport. However, the icy, northern state of North Dakota has plenty to offer beyond its capital city; simply rent a car and drive an hour south along Interstate 29 to reach Hankinson, where you'll find a small yet mighty mix of local eats and waterfront fun.

The city was founded in the 1880s and named after the Civil War veteran R.H. Hankinson. At first, it was primarily an agrarian community, but it has transformed into a popular lakefront destination. World Population Review reports that about 940 people call Hankinson home in 2026, although its population seems to be on a steady increase, growing at a rate of around 2% since 2020.

Grass Lake, Willard Lake, and Lake Elsie can be found side-by-side on Hankinson's southwest border. They host fishing derbies, kayaking, canoeing, and ice skating. There are also nearby wildlife refuges, nature preserves, and walking routes through rolling fields, such as the 8-mile Hankinson Hills Trail. The city is close to Sheyenne National Grassland, too, so it's become a gateway of sorts to acres and acres of North Dakota wildlife. 

Restaurants and cafés in downtown Hankinson

Hankinson might be small — in fact, it spans less than 2 square miles according to Home Town Locator — but it still has several old-school restaurants and bars to choose from, which are ideal if you're prone to nostalgia. Dakota Drive-In, for instance, serves a classic menu of ice cream sundaes, burgers, and hot dogs straight from a window, which you can enjoy from picnic tables. Keep in mind that the restaurant is only open from April through September depending on the weather, so plan accordingly. According to one customer review on Google Maps, the wait times can be long: "It's not very fast, but it's been the place to go for 20 years for me whenever I visit family."

For an early morning energy boost before hitting the road again, check out Hot Cakes Café, which is open Tuesday through Friday from 6:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m., and Saturday from 6:30 a.m. to 11:30 a.m. If you swing by, you'll likely spot customers enjoying larger-than-life cinnamon rolls topped with icing or hearty plates of biscuits and gravy. "We ... stopped in the morning for breakfast and were happy we did," writes one traveler on Google Maps, adding, "This place is the model for cafés in small towns."

After you're done eating American comfort food, drive north to explore the rest of the state — Hankinson is a gateway, after all. Explore Fargo's intriguing attractions and shops, or enjoy a family-friendly day trip from the city to places like Space Aliens Grill & Bar. The restaurant's neon lights, planet models, and curved roof are about as otherworldly as its food.

Spend the night by the water in North Dakota

In the 19th century, Colonel Hankinson — after whom the town is named — built a bright Victorian mansion on the banks of Lake Elsie. Today, that home is the Lady on the Lake Bed and Breakfast, a quaint stop for vacationers. The B&B's four rooms, each named after former residents, have views of the water. You'll also find amenities such as delicately carved European beds, hot tubs, and a private balcony in the Colonel Hankinson suite. Prices range from around $200 to $300 per night depending on the room, day, and season.

Over the years, the B&B has accumulated dozens of 5-star reviews on Google Maps, Tripadvisor, and Yelp. "This was a delightful Bed & Breakfast ... We were ready for a relaxing, quiet night away, and our stay here was just that, and so much more!" writes one guest on Tripadvisor, adding that the property was "immaculately clean, and VERY character-rich!" In the morning, guests can expect a decadent, homemade breakfast with scones, lemon curd, pancakes, and glazed bacon.

Although Hankinson's lakes aren't the largest in the state — that honor is reserved for Lake Sakakawea, which is so vast it looks like the ocean — they still offer plenty of opportunities for waterfront fun. During the day, guests at Lady on the Lake can fish from its onsite dock for smallmouth bass, walleye, and yellow perch. There are also kayaks, canoes, paddleboards, and bicycles if you'd like to explore, and small beaches if you're more in the mood for sunbathing.

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