'The World's First Book Town' Is A Scenic Wales Gem Filled With Quaint Shops, Quiet Charm, And A Vibrant Culture

Walk along the narrow streets of the Welsh town of Hay-on-Wye, and you might see something unusual. Signs along the streets bear curious messages like "Reading Zone Only," while another warns drivers that illegally parked cars will be "crushed and turned into bookends." You may even spot a sign proclaiming Hay-on-Wye as the "World's First Book Town." This last sign, at least, is true, according to Hay-on-Wye's website. Compact and easy to explore on foot, Hay-on-Wye is home to more than 20 independent bookstores, helping to establish its reputation as one of the world's few true book towns. Hay-on-Wye also hosts the annual Hay Festival, a major literary event that attracts bookworms from all across the United Kingdom and the wider world.

As a travel destination, Hay (locals often omit the "on Wye" part of the name) provides visitors with a rare opportunity to immerse themselves in literature and culture in a quaint, historic village far from the bustle of city life. Located in the Welsh countryside on the border with England, near Bannau Brycheiniog National Park, Hay offers a peaceful escape amid rolling hills and scenic walking trails along the River Wye. Whether you're hunting for a rare book or simply looking to enjoy a slower pace of life in a unique, historic, and culturally rich village, Hay's cozy cafes and old stone buildings provide the ideal setting for tranquil afternoons spent window shopping or reading by the fireside.

Hay-on-Wye developed its reputation as a book town in the 1960s, when bookseller Richard Booth began transforming the former sheep- and cattle-market town into a hotbed for secondhand books. At one point, Hay had 30 used bookstores (according to City Journal), and while that number has since shrunk to around 20, it's still impressive for a village of just over 2,000 people. Hay has inspired other towns to embrace literary tourism, like Charité-sur-Loire in France and the charming village of Hobart, New York.

Hay's bookstores tend to offer secondhand and antique books across genres, but some specialize in certain areas. Murder and Mayhem focuses on detective fiction, true crime, and horror, while the Hay-on-Wye Comics shop stocks manga and children's graphic novels. You'll also find vintage and antique shops alongside small boutiques selling handmade goods, stationery, and gifts for the home and garden. The town's weekly market— held every Thursday — typically features more than 40 vendors.

Books aren't Hay's only cultural draw. The town also has Richard Booth's Cinema (a small independent movie theatre), several art galleries, artist collectives, and art studios. There is also The Globe at Hay, a venue that hosts live music, open mic nights, and poetry readings in an 18th-century chapel converted into a cafe, bar, and restaurant. Dining options range from tapas and Indian cuisine to a 16th-century pub and pizzeria and a cafe tucked away inside Hay Castle. The recently restored castle is well worth a visit; the 12th-century medieval keep offers some of the best rooftop views of the town and River Wye. The castle is also home to the Honesty Bookshop, an outdoor, self-service bookstore where visitors can browse and pay for books without a shopkeeper.

One of the best times to visit Hay-on-Wye is during the annual Hay Festival, which has been nicknamed the "Woodstock of the Mind." The festival runs for 11 days from late May to early June. What started as a small literary event in 1988 has since grown to an internationally renowned celebration of books, ideas, and the arts that attracts bestselling authors and 100,000 visitors from around the world.

The surrounding countryside also offers a lot to see and do, starting with a walk along the River Wye. Just beyond the town center, The Warren is a meadow that attracts birds, rabbits, and otters, and is a popular local spot for picnics and relaxing by the water. When it comes to staying the night, Hay has a range of options, from quaint inns and cozy cottages to bed-and-breakfasts and hotels. The four-star The Swan at Hay has a charming walled garden just a short walking distance from the town center, while The Old Black Lion is situated in a colorful 17th-century inn. The nearest major airports include Cardiff Airport (CWL), approximately 70 miles away, and Bristol Airport (BRS), around 80 miles away. Birmingham Airport (BHX) is another option, located roughly 80 miles away. For those traveling by public transport, take a train to Hereford then continue by bus or taxi, but be sure to check connections in advance as service can be limited.

Further afield, Hay-on-Wye is less than 30 miles from the charming medieval town of Abergavenny and about 30 to 40 miles (depending on your route) from the former mining town of Coleford in England. The area also has hiking trails that wind through the Black Mountains to scenic bluffs offering panoramic views across the Welsh borderlands. The wild and remote Bannau Brycheiniog National Park is only about a 20-minute drive away.