Between Barnstaple And Doniford Is A Village Inside A National Park With Quiet Charm, Fishing, And Scenic Hiking

The United Kingdom's uniquely preserved history seems to seep out of every corner of the country, from the prehistoric tree trunks still visible in London's Regent's Park to a section of a Roman wall found inside a parking garage. That historic density radiates out into the countryside, along the River Barle in the country's southwest. Withypool, a small village nestled between Barnstaple and Doniford within Exmoor National Park, offers plenty of history, quiet charm, fishing, and scenic hiking.

The small village of less than 200 possesses the quiet charm found only in the British countryside, specifically the long, sloping expanses of its mostly treeless moorlands. And its history runs deep. Two bowl barrows, or Bronze Age burial mounds, rest in the village commons. Among those long, low, sloping countrysides lies a collection of historic landmarks. One of the most unassuming lies just outside of the village, a stone circle that's as humble as Stonehenge is bold. Consisting of 29 miniliths that barely peek out of the surrounding grass, the knee-high stones are quite hard to find. Visitors often treat stone sightings like Pokémon, making note of how many they found — or didn't. The history runs even deeper. A figure as profoundly impactful as Geoffrey Chaucer looked after Withypool while serving as a local forester. World War II-era generals spent nights at a local establishment, planning what would become a pivotal moment in global history.

The village sits near the geographic center of Exmoor National Park, an underrated coastal sprawl of wildflower fields and ponies. Its collection of natural wonders, historic landmarks, and deep roots in British culture makes it a surprisingly potent distillation of all the joys of exploring the British countryside. Its location and proximity to several other destinations in the area make it a possible hub for a weeklong excursion exploring the national park and nearby locales.

It's hard to overstate the appeal and sheer size of Withypool's main attraction, Exmoor National Park. The 267-square-mile protected area contains multitudes. Imposing cliffs standing over the Bristol Channel share space alongside sloping moorlands, with villages in the mix. It can all be explored via 830 miles of public pathways, ideally on foot. That diversity of terrain and attractions also translates to the climate. Pack and dress for several seasons and climates, as the weather is known to turn rather quickly.

Withypool's immediate surroundings give ample room to roam. Within the town, a simple stroll along the River Barle is enough to fill one's day with scenic hikes. A trail running west parallel to the river leads to The Landacre Bridge, a historic landmark believed to be built during the late medieval period. Alternatively, tracking the flowing water east and south leads to the Tarr Steps, an ancient stone bridge made of slabs weighing up to two tons. Considered among the oldest bridges in the United Kingdom, some legends claim Satan himself built the bridge and promised to smite anyone who crossed it. If you want to tempt the devil, an 8-mile circular route traverses the countryside, then crosses the River Barle at the Tarr Steps before leading back to Withypool. 

If you'd rather enjoy the serenity of the area while sitting in place, find a rod and reel. Fishing Withypool's local rivers and streams offers a distinct level of zen. The River Barle offers eel, grayling, salmon, and trout, though you need a permit. The Hacche Moore Fishery, about 20 minutes southwest, has three lakes stocked with carp that can reach up to 30 pounds. License-free fishing is available on the northern coast, where bass, conger, cod, whiting, and skate await.

Withypool's remote location may be why the unassuming and oft-overlooked destination, just 75 minutes north of Exeter, is off the radar. Even the locals have a hard time getting around easily. Flying in requires booking a flight to Bristol Airport (BRS), then mixing trains and a cab to reach Withypool, or renting a car and driving nearly 70 miles. You can make a real road trip out of the adventure by adding Dunster to your drive down. It's another quaint village inside Exmoor with shops and a scenic castle. 

Finding a place to sleep shouldn't be an issue. The village has several small private accommodations. The crown jewel and arguably best local, historic experience can be found at the Royal Oak Inn. The 18th-century pub has been serving and housing guests for over three centuries. The historic run includes overnight stays by Dwight Eisenhower after D-Day and a former owner who inspired M, the character in the James Bond novels. After a few days in town, expand your stay in southwest England — you already made the effort to get here — by continuing 16 miles north to the twin villages of Lynton and Lynmouth. They offer coastal vibes and views of Exmoor's scenic cliffs.

Travelers looking for a distinctly local experience should visit between spring and autumn, when Withypool's Tearooms are open. Located in the center of town, the former gas stations-turned-eateries serve a mix of sweet and savory food. Try the ever-popular cream tea with extra-large scones and local jam. If you'd rather throw back a pint, that option's available as well. As an extra bonus, a spring-to-autumn visit also promises the best weather.