Between Gloucester And Oxford Is A Charming Market Town With Shops, Trails, And Natural Beauty

The Cotswolds have arguably crossed the threshold into overtourism, causing headaches for locals accustomed to the bucolic serenity of the once-forgotten British countryside. It may be time, then, for travelers to temper their expectations and spread out to the area's lesser-known corners. Yes, there are "under-discovered" parts of the Cotswolds. Places like Northleach. Sitting less than an hour from Gloucester and Oxford, the charming market town with shops, trails, and natural beauty has been spared the fanfare of its more popular siblings thanks to its lack of proximity to a major thoroughfare.

Like much of the Cotswolds, Northleach's economic history follows the fortunes of the wool trade, with the switch from exporting to weaving wool leaving the town in the lurch. It eventually changed its identity, becoming a welcome stop for coaches bound for London. The addition of a reform-minded prison (yes, prison) helped bridge the lull in the wool trade. Then the arrival of railways nixed the steady stream of coaches passing through town. The construction of a highway farther away from town compounded the problems. Northleach's prospects in the previous century grew dim, with vacant properties pockmarking the town. It earned the unfortunate moniker, "the forgotten town of the Cotswolds."

Yet there's plenty about Northleach to make it memorable. Its nearly 2,000 residents live in a town that remains nearly identical to its earlier incarnations, the imperative to grow and expand completely bypassing it. The houses off the High Street retain their mix of stone and timber. The various businesses, institutions, and artisans remain steadfastly singular. There's a baker. There's the butcher. Kids go to the school. Throw in some places to eat. Some places to sleep. Local rumor claims stone tunnels zigzag beneath Northleach, layering history and mystery onto every visit. Consider it a humbler, more authentic alternative to Broadway, a charming village considered the "Jewel of the Cotswolds."

Northleach's past as a thriving market town still resonates in the area today. The historic marketplace, made official by a royal charter granted almost eight centuries ago, remains in the center of town. The square and neighboring High Street still contain a dense collection of shops, from a convenience store to a butcher or cafe. There's even a wine cellar that lets patrons consume their purchases on-site. Perhaps the most unique of the lot is The Dolls House, a small local shop that specializes in small-scale dollhouses — bespoke and antique — along with the accessories and ancillary toys that go along with them. The shop is open by appointment only, so book a visit in advance. While stalking the streets, be sure to stop at the aforementioned prison, its imposing facade still intact yet now charmingly known as The Old Prison. It has become a cafe with a prison-themed menu, where travelers can stop by for a quick bite, then peruse the grounds.

Looking to get your steps in for the day? Several trails meander through town. These run the gamut from a shorter 90-minute jaunt into the neighboring hamlet of Hampnett to a two-hour trek through the Cotswolds' gorgeous farmlands. Other trails in, through, and around Northleach include a variety of multi-day adventures. The 60-mile North Cotswolds Diamond Way offers a stop in the area's lesser-known locales. For the more ambitious, Northleach is a prominent stop on the Monarch's Way, a 107-mile trek that was part of a larger escape route used by King Charles II after his defeat at the Battle of Worcester. These walks across the countryside let travelers enjoy the bucolic rolling fields outside Northleach, which rests in the heart of the Cotswolds Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

The same characteristic that makes the Cotswolds and Northleach so enticing — their remote location — is also their Achilles' heel. You really have to make an effort to get here. The closest major transit hub depends on where you're flying in from. Flights into Birmingham International Airport (BHX) will still leave you about 80 minutes out of town, while London Heathrow Airport (LHR) is 90 minutes away. Yes, it's a lot of effort to reach a town that's not on the list of England's most charming villages with cottagecore vibes. But Northleach still has the standing structures and history that make it feel like a time warp. Especially when finding a place to stay.

The coaches bound for London overnighting in Northleach would, among other places, stay at The Sherborne Arms. You can too. The centuries-old pub's rooms feature the British countryside aesthetic that's a signature of the Cotswolds, matching the austere, humble philosophy that permeates every corner of the area. Ditto the Wheatsheaf, another historic inn that once hosted coach riders. If you want a slightly more dynamic, seaside-like experience, head over to Bourton-on-the-Water. The picturesque riverside village considered the "Venice of the Cotswolds" is only a 10-minute drive north.

If you have the luxury of a flexible schedule, make your trip coincide with the Charter Fair. Northleach, despite its varied historic highs and lows, retains the original market-town spirit that saw King Henry III give it a charter in 1227. The town still celebrates the event every year, centuries later, on the last Saturday in June during its annual Charter Fair. If you need more motivation, the fair coincides with the best weather. (The town even still uses the Medieval-era Court Leet to select the fair's officials and a High Bailiff every November. It's one of the few towns in England continuing this tradition, uninterrupted.)