Outside Keswick Is A Charming Market Town With Castle Ruins, Tasty Eats, And A Nearby National Park

Known as the "old red town" thanks to its distinctive red sandstone buildings, Penrith is an attractive settlement on the edge of the Lake District National Park. It makes a convenient base for exploring the park, but has plenty to offer itself, from ancient castle ruins to independent shops and restaurants. Being just outside the park, Penrith has retained its local charm without being overwhelmed by tourism. In 2023, the Sunday Times named Penrith one of the best places to live in the North West, with its "windswept scenery" and "engaging community vibe." Cumbria Guide goes further, calling it an "absolute peach of a town" filled with "friendly folk, fantastic businesses, and a long and fascinating history." As a local, I wholeheartedly agree. Penrith has been my hometown for the last decade and I'm excited to share my top tips for planning your own visit.

If you're arriving by train, the first thing you'll see is the castle. Just across the road from the station, the red stone ruins of Penrith Castle sit in a pretty public park and are free to visit. The fortress was built in the 14th century to defend the area from marauding Scots and later became a lavish residence for the future King Richard III. You'll find many references to him across Penrith, including in St. Andrew's Church and at the Dockray Hall pub in the center of town.

Penrith is a market town, with a market charter dating to the 13th century. There's still a farmers' market held in Market Square on the third Tuesday of each month. The town is also known for its historic "yards," which are small alleyways once used by farmers to access stables when they brought their produce to market by horse and cart. Today, there are around 50 of these quaint courtyards, which are now home to hidden cafés and boutique shops. 

Penrith is a relatively small town, but when it comes to eating out, there's lots of choice. From popular Cumbrian dishes to delicious international cuisine, the food scene in Penrith is thriving. Indeed, it's one of the reasons I chose to move here. If you fancy trying local delicacies, I suggest heading to Café Oswald's for their award-winning Cumberland sausage — a peppery coiled sausage with a heritage dating back centuries. This modern café is my go-to place for brunch, with cozy booths and belly-warming dishes like full English breakfasts and Cumbrian rarebit, which is cheese on toast with tasty trimmings. You can pick up locally produced edible souvenirs from Cranston's Food Hall below after your meal, which is one of my guilty shopping pleasures.

For a mid-week feast, I often dine at Arturo Lounge, with its quirky décor and relaxing sofas. The menu features dishes from around the world — I recommend the spicy Malaysian nasi goreng or the cheesy Mexican tacos for a hearty meal. There's a fun tapas selection too, with Louisiana fried chicken and Bombay cauliflower always going down a treat. I'm also a fan of Favilla by Smoke & Steel, an inventive live-fire dining restaurant with a meat-focused menu. It's a hit among visitors, with one Tripadvisor user reporting that the "pulled lamb was absolutely to die for," while another recommends the "smoky chop house butter" with its "tasty ingredients and a slight curry kick."

When it comes to lunch, try the Narrowbar Café in the heart of the historic center. Known for its soups and sandwiches, it's a convenient spot to refuel. Tripadvisor diners say the food is "good value and really tasty," with some recommending the delicious warm goat cheese salad and lamb kofta wrap. Personally, I love popping in here for a coffee and cake when I'm out shopping. 

Penrith is a great jumping-off point for the nearby Lake District National Park, with the charming town of Keswick and the beautiful Ullswater Valley just a short drive away. It's easy to reach Penrith by road as it's located just off the M6 motorway, about 27 miles north of the bustling town of Kendal. Penrith has good public transport links too, with both trains and buses giving a range of access options. From Penrith, you can catch the bus into the national park, with popular stops including Ambleside and the dreamy tourist town of Windermere.

For adventures in the national park, I recommend hopping on the 508 Stagecoach bus to Glenridding at the far end of Ullswater. In less than 40 minutes, you'll be in a charming village beside one of the most beautiful lakes in England. There's plenty to do here, from enjoying a round-the-lake cruise with Ullswater Steamers to hiking up Helvellyn, the third-highest peak in the park. For a sweet treat, I love indulging in some delicious Lakes Ice Cream from Sharman's grocery store — the Thunder & Lightning flavor is divine. The 508 bus also stops at Aira Force, a scenic waterfall beneath an old stone bridge set in an 18th-century pleasure ground. Following woodland trails, it takes around 20 minutes to reach the cascade on foot.

A little farther into the park is Grasmere, one of the prettiest villages in the heart of the Lakes, also accessible by bus. Known for its literary connections and traditional stone cottages, Grasmere is a quintessential Lakeland settlement with plenty of mountain hikes and tea shops to enjoy. I recommend hiring a rowing boat from Faeryland to explore the lake, before trying the delicious gingerbread from Sarah Nelson's, which is still made using a secret family recipe dating to the 19th century.