An Hour From Nantes Is A Coastal Town With Award-Winning Beaches, Art, And Historic Sites

When it comes to France's western coast, Saint-Nazaire may not be the first destination that comes to mind, and that's exactly why it's worth a look. A coastal town just an hour from the bustling hub of Nantes, it admittedly lacks the glitz and fame of fellow Atlantic destinations like La Rochelle or Biarritz. But it has some aces up its sleeve: a past anchored, quite literally, to the sea, from the shipyard that built the Queen Mary 2 to a Cold War-era submarine; pops of colorful street art; and 20 beaches and coves along a 9-mile coastline, three of them Blue Flag award winners.

Saint-Nazaire's history was shaped by the sea and written in concrete and steel. Its strategic Loire-meets-Atlantic location transformed what was, up until the mid-19th century, a fishing village into a major shipbuilding hub and part of France's fourth-largest mainland seaport. That seafaring legacy surfaces along the waterfront with Escal'Atlantic, a life-size recreation of a transatlantic liner complete with a promenade deck, steerage cabins, and interactive displays. It's housed inside a World War II German U-boat bunker that survived the Allied bombings that destroyed about 85% of the town. A short walk away is the Espadon, a retired French navy submarine that is open to the public. Guided tours of the shipyards, which must be booked in advance, offer an up-close look at the bustling working yards where iconic ships like the Queen Mary 2 and Harmony of the Seas were built. 

On the seafront, the American Monument, a rebuilt statue of a U.S. soldier atop a bronze eagle, honors the arrival of the first American troops in France during World War I. A 15-minute ride farther inland takes you some 6,000 years back in time to the Dissignac Tumulus, a Neolithic burial mound and a protected historic monument — a reminder of just how far this coastal corner has come.

Saint-Nazaire is no slouch when it comes to beaches. Three of its 20 beaches and coves have earned the Blue Flag, an international eco-label for beaches, marinas, and tourism boats that meet a demanding set of environmental criteria. Plage de Monsieur Hulot, the backdrop to the 1950s French comedy "Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot," is the stunner of the bunch — and visitors tend to agree, praising its well-maintained sands and clean amenities. 

Nearby, La Courance's cliff-backed beach draws surfers and skimboarders, much like the shores of Charente-Maritime, an island-dotted enclave farther down France's mild Atlantic coast known for its seafood and surfing. Meanwhile, dune-sheltered Les Jaunais Beach is family-friendly, but a separate cove to the east is clothing-optional.

It's not fair to play Blue Flag favorites, though, because other shores are worth your while, too. Plage Saint-Nazaire sits on the town's doorstep, steps from Place du Commando, a seafront square made for post-beach drinks. To get away from the crowds, explore the quieter coves of La Petite Vallée and Port Charlotte, or venture to the lesser-known beaches of Kerloupiots and Kerlédé, reached by descending steep steps. And for some local color, you'll find the iconic pêcheries, wooden fishing huts suspended over the water, around the port of Trébézy and at Sautron. Linking these beaches and coves together is the Customs Officers' Path, or GR 34, a public coastal footpath that stretches from Saint-Nazaire to Brittany's Mont-Saint-Michel.

Ever since the music festival Les Escales brought street art along with the beat in 2015, Saint-Nazaire's walls have become living canvases for a slew of colorful murals by artists from around the world. Though on a smaller scale than other European street art destinations, the town's art scene doesn't lack for showstoppers. Near the waterfront, ocean-inspired murals grace facades at Place du Commando and in the Havana Quarter. More street art appears farther into town: Australian artist Matt Adnate's striking portrait of an Aboriginal boy, a retro-style ocean liner fresco by French artists Toqué Frères, and a tableau of an eagle taking flight by Chinese artist DALeast, to name just a few.

Even a stroll along the coast can turn into an art hunt if you keep count of the quirky blue characters, dubbed Les Oides, that a local graffiti artist has scattered around town.  With over 500 of them to find, you're bound to spot one. Keep an eye out for an odd sculptural trio of a foot, a sweater, and a digestive system just off the central beach. And when the weather drives you indoors, duck into the Écomusée to brush up on maritime history, or head to Le Grand Café, a 19th-century cafe-turned-contemporary center.

Ready to set sail? Nantes, the edgier, less-crowded antidote to Paris, is just an hour away by car, though regional trains are just as convenient in getting you to Saint-Nazaire in as little as 35 minutes. From Paris, count on around two hours and 40 minutes on a direct high-speed train. If you're flying in, Nantes Atlantique Airport (NTE), the nearest major airport, serves both domestic and international flights.