Old World Wine-Making Practices Thrive At Oregon's Charming Vineyard With Dazzling Hood River Views

It might not be as glamorous or as famous as California's iconic Napa Valley, but Oregon wine country is one of the country's most impressive and exciting wine regions. Boasting pinot noir that has been favorably compared to the vintages of Burgundy, Oregon has the 2nd-most wineries in the U.S., behind California.

Wine has been grown in Oregon since it was first incorporated as a U.S. territory in the 1840s, but it only really began to make waves in wine circles in the 1960s and 1970s. Winemakers from California came north and established several wineries, planting pinot noir grapes in the Willamette Valley, now Oregon's premier wine region, which had previously been thought to be far too cold to successfully support grape vines. Oregon pinot noir began winning international awards in the '70s and '80s and has never really looked back. 

There are plenty of fantastic and innovative winemakers all over the Beaver State, but few are as charming and unusual as the Hiyu Wine Farm. This magical spot in the shadow of Mount Hood, with glorious rolling vine-covered hills gazing out over the Hood River, is one of the leading natural wine producers in the state, and takes immense pride in working with traditional, Old World methods and practices. Located around 22 miles from Mount Hood and just over 67 miles from the center of Portland, it takes just over an hour to reach by car from the city. It is a delightful drive that winds its way along the route of the Columbia River and is a great escape from the crowds of Portland.

Natural wine has become incredibly popular in the last few years. There's no standard definition for what constitutes natural wine, but broadly speaking, it means grapes grown using traditional methods, without the use of pesticides, and with limited additives. At Hiyu, this means breaking down the traditional differences between winemaking and farming, and incorporating the principles of organic farming into everything they do across the land, from livestock to orchards, crops, and vines. The animals on the farm are a huge part of what makes their methods special, as they let them do plenty of the work! Ducks, chickens, pigs, and cows roam freely through the vines, fertilizing the grapes and taking care of the grass and weeds. There's a sense of joyful chaos all around the winery, an understanding that nature knows the best way to get things done.

In terms of the wine itself, Hiyu has a pretty avant-garde way of doing things. You probably won't find many recognizable or classic wines coming out of this winery. While plenty of vineyards confine themselves to a few select grape varietals, Hiyu has over 100. They adhere to an unusual, somewhat archaic Old World-style tradition of growing a bunch of grapes together in the same field, and then fermenting them together to create a "field blend." They also play fairly fast and loose with the concept of "wine" itself, and they aren't afraid to throw berries that grow in the fields and fruit from the orchards into the fermentation tank. 

You can buy Hiyu wines directly from the estate's website and from a number of online natural wine stockists, and they run an esoteric but excellent subscription service called the Understory, with monthly deliveries of whatever is ready to ship. However, it is definitely worth driving out from Portland to visit the farm for the fullest, most enchanting experience. The farm is gorgeous, an undulating, overgrown 30 acres with views out across pine-covered hills towards the Hood River, with the peak of Mount Hood visible in the distance. 

You'll get a warm welcome when you arrive from Nate Ready and China Tresemer, the co-owners. They are all about community and hold regular tasting events, from small seated experiences to much grander weekend affairs for larger groups with food and wine pairings. You can tour the vineyard and the farm, wandering through the vines and around the orchards to see where all the grapes and produce come from, before settling in to try the latest blends and vintages. 

There is also an excellent restaurant on-site, the Wine Tavern, open for lunch Friday to Sunday and for dinner Thursday to Sunday. The food is, unsurprisingly, all grown or foraged on the farm, or from animals reared here. The menu changes daily, with dishes designed to match the wine blends, but also carefully chosen based on the ingredients they are harvesting and foraging at that moment in time. All in all, it is an incredibly holistic experience from start to finish, and one that is well worth the trip.