This Delightfully Quirky Town In Costa Rica's Mountains Is Full Of Artistic Gardens And Small-Town Charm

Most people come to Costa Rica to see wild animals like toucans, sloths, and jaguars. However, there is one remarkable town that has put itself on the map with a stunning topiary garden that enchants travelers with its impressive artistry. Zarcero is located in the rainforest-covered mountains surrounding the capital of San José, which are also home to travel-worthy natural swimming holes called the Pozas Celestes.

Created by an intriguing mastermind affectionately nicknamed "Señor Scissorhands," the topiary garden is a living piece of artwork and the main attraction that makes Zarcero worth visiting. There are larger-than-life animal sculptures, but the most photogenic part of the park is the series of wavy arches that are perfect for dynamic photoshoots. If you're considering visiting Zarcero on your next trip to Costa Rica, here's everything you need to know, from the fascinating history of the gardens and their creator to how to get there, and other worthwhile places to visit nearby.

It's a unique story, how this small town in the mountains of Costa Rica ended up with such a charming and quirky town square. In 1964, the municipality of Zarcero commissioned the 25-year-old artist Evangelista Blanco to design a garden in the central plaza. Instead of going with a standard layout of flowerbeds and trees, he planted and shaped cypress trees into an enchanting garden filled with whimsical characters like elephants, a motorcycle-riding monkey, and a bull and bullfighter. The most iconic sculptures, though, are the 16 undulating arches that look like they were transported from the pages of a Dr. Seuss book into this small Costa Rican mountain town. Today, the garden goes by the name Parque Francisco Alvarado, and you shouldn't have any trouble finding it when you arrive in Zarcero. Just look for the red domes of Parroquia San Rafael Arcángel, a church built in 1895.

Up until Blanco's passing in 2023, the artist could be found personally trimming the hedges in the garden. Because he planted each of the cypress trees from seeds, it was a lifelong project to nurture and shape every sculpture in the garden. However, the city still carries on Blanco's legacy by maintaining the gardens, as they have long been a popular site for tourists and local families to visit. He was a beloved figure, and in 2014 he was even nationally recognized in Costa Rica when he won the National Prize for Popular Culture.

Located in the mountainous Alajuela province, Zarcero is about 40 miles away from the Costa Rican capital of San José. It takes about 90 minutes to get there from the city center by car. Bajos del Toro, a lush canyon with cliffs and swimming holes, is a popular stopping point or add-on to the trip, as the park is only another 30 minutes away. If you don't have a car for the trip to Zarcero, you can take a local bus from the capital, which typically takes about two hours and costs less than $10 each way.

If you have a free afternoon in San José, an excursion to Zarcero makes for a charming day trip. Although if you're looking for real animals, not just the topiary versions, Dave and Dave's Costa Rica Nature Park is great fun too. There are a few hotels in town, but it may be worth continuing the journey onward (about 35 miles) for a night of glamping in the mountains at the ultra-scenic Poas Volcano Observatory Lodge.