The Mediterranean's 'Silent City' Is A Calm Medieval Metropolis With Unique Architecture, Wine, And Old Charm
Composed of five islands between Sicily and Tunisia, Malta's strategic location has made it a coveted prize for centuries. With Neolithic temples, Phoenician and Roman ruins, and remarkably well-preserved medieval cities, Malta is the perfect Mediterranean island for a historic vacation. It has three UNESCO World Heritage sites, including the capital, Valletta. The crown jewel of Malta's historic sites, however, is the walled medieval city of Mdina.
Once Malta's capital, this majestic fortified city was the seat of power on the island under the command of the Knights of St. John. From here, the Knights fended off the mighty Ottoman Empire in a navy battle known as the Great Siege of Malta. After their victory, the Knights of St. John decided to build a much larger capital in Valletta, abandoning Mdina so quickly that it was nicknamed "the silent city" for its eerie empty streets. Today, Mdina is prized for its quiet streets, with few residents and virtually no traffic on its stone streets.
To visit, you can fly into Malta's International Airport just 20 minutes from the city by car or bus. Alternatively, you could take a ferry from Sicily. Boats depart every day from Pozzallo and drop passengers right in Valletta's harbour after about 1 hour and 45 minutes at sea. From Valletta, you can rent a car or take the bus to Mdina. Note that if you take a car, you'll have to park outside the city walls. Buses leave every 10 minutes, and the ride is under 30 minutes.
What to see and do in Mdina
Most visitors enter Mdina through the Vilhena Gate, a majestic Baroque design that crosses over a classic castle moat, now a garden. If it looks familiar, you might remember it as the entry to King's Landing in "Game of Thrones." St. Paul's Cathedral dominates Mdina's skyline and is the most important heritage site in the city, believed to be where Saint Paul converted Publius, Malta's Roman Governor to Christianity. The structure was built in the early 18th century to replace the previous Cathedral, irreparably damaged in an earthquake. Many of the Cathedral's artifacts and archives can be seen next door at the Mdina Metropolitan Cathedral Museum. For a more intimate look at religious life in Mdina, the Carmelite Priory welcomes visitors to see their refectory, kitchens, and even a typical friar's room.
The Palazzo Falson offers an immersive experience into the family lives of Mdina's nobility. This 13th-century building evolved over the centuries, from a single-story house for noblemen to a grand two-story palace that was owned by a wealthy Swedish trader in the 20th century. Visitors can see how the medieval architecture has been painstakingly restored as well as the fine furnishings of the last owners.
What to eat and where to stay in Mdina
Though not technically in Mdina, the adjacent town of Rabat is a short 15-minute walk outside of the old city walls. It's home to several catacombs and ancient Roman burial complexes that are a fascinating archaeological window into the history of Malta and early Christianity on the island. The Wignacourt Museum is an excellent stop to learn about Malta's remarkable place in history, from its subterranean tunnels — including the grotto where Saint Paul is believed to have sought refuge after a shipwreck — to World War II air raid shelters. Back in Mdina, close to the main gate, you can also see the preserved mosaics at the Domus Romana, a Roman villa.
Malta is so small that many visitors opt to stay in a more central location, like Valletta, and visit Mdina as a day trip, but there are accommodation options in the city as well. For example, the Maison Medina Malta is a classic Maltese guesthouse with a rooftop view over Mdina's walls. For a classic Maltese meal, try the rabbit fried in garlic, thyme, and peas at Da Luigi in Rabat. It's a local specialty you can pair with Malta's grape varietals, the red Ġellewża or white Girgentina wines. When you're done with Malta's historic sites, plan a lazy beach day. You can head to Ramla Bay, where the fiery red sand is known for ravishingly beautiful sunsets, or the underrated Marsalforn, an affordable getaway with fresh seafood.