Canada's Remote Islands Where Wild Caribou Roam Offer Artful Stays, Tasty Eats, And Picturesque Villages
Canada is home to some stunning, far-flung islands, including one of the most remote islands on Earth. Among them is the largest offshore island of Newfoundland and Labrador, Fogo Island, and its neighbor, Change Islands. The two islands are peppered with tiny clapboard houses painted red and green, against the backdrop of lush forests. Home to wild caribous and the even wilder shores of the North Atlantic, these islands will make you feel like you're living in a J.M.W. Turner painting. The soul-stirring views at Fogo and Change Islands are painted with an equally deep shade of culture. Fogo was once home to Irish and English settlers who moved there in the 18th century, drawn by the flourishing cod trade.
Cod fishing was the region's raison d'être and, in many ways, it remains so to this day. The community has diverged into 12 communities scattered across both islands, each with its unique traditions. But one common thread that ties them together is warm hospitality. Don't be taken aback if a stranger invites you in for a scrumptious meal of cod au gratin, a comfort food of the islanders with flaked cod baked in white sauce and cheddar cheese. You wouldn't want to miss the gripping tales served alongside. Reaching Fogo and Change Islands isn't much trouble. After landing at Gander International Airport (YQX), head to Newfoundland's Farewell Ferry Terminal. From there, it's a 50-minute ferry ride to Fogo.
Cozy stays, scenic trails, and quaint shops on Fogo Island
Besides their raw, wild beauty and deep cultural roots, Fogo and Change Islands are also a haven for artists, with curated stays purposefully built to inspire creatives. The most renowned among them is the Fogo Island Arts residency, visited by artists, writers, and filmmakers from around the world. The Fogo Island Inn is another place that beautifully blends Fogo's cultural roots with modern design. A Nordic-inspired hotel perched on the windswept shores, it is home to a contemporary art gallery, a 37-seat cinema, and more. The hotel's restaurant serves delicious local gourmet food, and all meals and snacks are fully included. However, as a Michelin Three-Key luxury hotel, expect to spend lavishly on your stay. Thankfully, there are plenty of highly-rated accommodations on the island for more modest budgets.
Canada has the longest coastline in the world, so it's no surprise that Fogo and Change Islands are lined with stunning coastal hiking trails. Much like Nova Scotia's Sunrise Trail hugging Canada's coast, these trails are surrounded by dramatic Atlantic landscapes. Be sure to take a walk along the Courting Trail at Fogo Island's Deep Bay.It's mesmerizing and less than a mile long. If you have the time, your best bet for seeing wildlife would be the Lion's Den Hiking Trail, which runs across four villages and is frequented by wild red foxes. If you're lucky, you might spot a herd of caribou quietly grazing together, especially if you visit during the fall or spring. Fogo also has quaint little craft shops brimming with paintings and miniature saltbox houses, as well as fascinating museums like the Marconi Wireless Interpretation Site, which details the region's history of wireless communication.
Must-try restaurants on Fogo Island
At Change Islands, the Seven Oakes Island Inn is perhaps one of the oldest structures on the island. You can almost taste the salty history of the region while strolling through the former fishing merchant's home from the 1800s. Change Islands is an easy ferry ride from Fogo, so you can plan a visit anytime. The reclusive island is dotted with forests, bogs, and marshes.Change Islands, with its small and scattered population of 300 people, keeps things simple. You won't find dozens of restaurants here. But, be open to invitations from locals who might introduce you to delicious Newfoundland delicacies, like toutons — fried pieces of white dough served with molasses. Across the water in Fogo, however, the options widen.
It would be a shame not to try a cod dish when visiting Fogo, and the Cod Jigger Diner is a beloved spot that serves up delicious fried cod. Bangbelly Cafe is another cozy eatery with its own twist on Newfoundland's traditional recipes. The rack of ribs served with Tamari-molasses glaze is quite the talk of the town. If you have a hankering for well-baked pizza, head to Punch Buggy Pizza & Coffee Co., where you'll find delicious slices, quality coffee, and house-made pastries served out of a cheerful takeout window. And if you happen to visit around Canadian Thanksgiving in October, don't miss the Fogo Island Partridgeberry Festival, a gathering that feels stitched straight from the island's soul, with music, markets and, of course, partridgeberries galore.