Hidden On The Nayarit Riviera Is A 'True Mexican Town' With Golden Sand Beaches And Colorful Cantinas

Mexico's Riviera Nayarit is a 200-mile coastline full of contrasts. Stretching north from the bright lights of Puerto Vallarta to the historic port city of San Blas, the Riviera Nayarit offers captivating, Portugal-style magic towns and some of the most luxurious, opulent boutique hotels and resorts in Punta Mita. You can party at the low-key seaside gem of Sayulita, or hike through stunning jungle trails in search of hidden waterfalls and amazing ocean views. 

For many, a trip to the Riviera Nayarit means exploring Puerto Vallarta, Punta Mita, or Sayulita. Anyone looking for less crowded spots or a little more Mexican authenticity will probably end up in the artistic village of San Pancho or the hidden beach town of Bucerías. But venturing a little further up the coast brings you to a hidden paradise of uncrowded golden sand beaches, colorful cantinas, and classic Mexican charm that is worth seeking out.

Lo de Marcos is about 7 miles north of San Pancho, and about 50 miles from the nearest international airport in Puerto Vallarta. The drive from the airport along Highway 200 takes about an hour, and there are several buses that serve the Riviera Nayarit, calling at Sayulita and San Pancho on the way to Lo de Marcos. The Compostela bus line costs around $3.

Lo de Marcos is a small place that has so far avoided the tourist crowds of other places along the Nayarit coast. Visitors here tend to be national tourists, as well as a fairly sizeable group of snowbirds and retirees from Canada and the West Coast of the U.S., who come down for long periods over winter. The Canadian snowbird community is particularly strong, so much so that the north end of town is known as the "French Quarter" due to the number of Quebecois inhabitants. 

The atmosphere here is laid-back and relaxed, and its attractions are similarly tranquil and unfussy. The best way to spend a day in Lo de Marcos is to set yourself up with a beach chair and a cooler and enjoy the vast expanses of empty sand and the gorgeous warm waters of the Mexican Pacific. The waves vary from wonderfully gentle, perfect for paddling and swimming, to more serious surf breaks in the morning and early evening, so there's plenty to occupy all sorts of tastes, with plenty of kayak and surf rentals in town. There is also a charming little 9-hole golf course, the Field of Dreams, just a ten-minute drive away. 

While Lo de Marcos isn't particularly well-known for its snorkeling or scuba diving, the abundant sea life means there's plenty of interest out on the ocean waves. Hire a boat and a captain on the beach and head out to try your luck at catching dorado, red snapper, or sierra for lunch. If you visit between November and April, you might see migrating humpback whales playing not far off the coast.

The traditional heart of Lo de Marcos is the delightful bandstand in the middle of its colorful central square. Papel picado flags hung across cobbled streets flutter in the breeze, and the square is ringed with excellent local restaurants. Las Glorias is a favorite for locals and tourists alike, thanks to its mouthwatering grilled fish and handmade corn tortillas, cooked fresh on the comal outside. Doña Chayo is about as authentic as it gets, with the pozole a particular highlight. In the evenings, the square comes alive with casual, temporary stalls and food carts, and a taste of the tacos, esquites, and quesadillas from anywhere with a line guarantees a fantastic food experience. For afters, the fig ice cream from Dolce Amore is unbeatable, as is the chocolate tres leches cake from Arcelia's. 

The accommodation options in Lo de Marcos have improved significantly in the last few years. Where once there were just a few small guesthouses and an RV park filled with North American retirees, there are now plenty of hotels and vacation rentals for travelers to stay. 

Villas y Bungalows Tlaquepaque is a popular spot in the center of town, a short walk from the beach, with a fantastic restaurant on site. Bungalows Las Tortugas offers simple rooms in a quiet area of town, while Hotel El Coral is right on the beach. For travelers who like a little more luxury, the One&Only Mandarina is an exquisite luxury resort, hidden away on the coast surrounded by jungle, a few miles out of town.