This Coastal Connecticut State Park Has Colorful Gardens, A Nice Little Beach, And Elegant Summer Vibes

Coastal Connecticut is always beautiful, but really comes to life during summer. Marinas are active with boaters exploring Long Island Sound and Connecticut River, beachgoers take dips, and waterfront restaurants are full of diners digging into the state's famous Connecticut-style lobster rolls (hot with butter) and other freshly harvested local seafood. A town that might not be on your radar is Waterford, under and hour from both the capital of Hartford and from New Haven, known for Yale and its outstanding free museums including one that will spark curiosity about your brain. 

On a 33-square-mile promontory with water on three sides, Waterford has 20,000 residents and a destination-worthy state park. The 230-acre Harkness Memorial State Park offers a relaxing day of recreation on beautiful grounds with forested parkland, beach, and stunning gardens that once were part of a private estate. Connecticut's answer to Newport, Rhode Island's mansions, the grand 42-room Renaissance Revival estate Eolia (named for the Greek god of wind Aeolius), with its sweeping water views, was the elegant summer residence of Edward and Mary Harkness.

Edward's father was J.D. Rockefeller's Standard Oil silent partner, and they were philanthropists, donating more than $200 million ($2 billion today) of their fortune. When Mary died in 1950, she left Eolia and its grounds to the State of Connecticut to be enjoyed by all. The home is open for tours in summer and people come to barbeque and picnic, fish, enjoy the gardens, and stroll the grounds.

The park is open year-round and house tours are available on summer weekends. Join a tour to see the 1906 mansion's 20 bedrooms, 14 baths, 11 fireplaces, and special decorative fixtures like murals and Venetian glass chandeliers. Stroll the vibrant gardens, which were designed by well-known landscape architects: Beatrix Farrand originally planned the formal gardens and decades later Marian Coffin updated the East Garden. Vines creep on a pergola, heliotrope releases its vanilla scent, and color bursts from the thousands of plantings. Garden features of note include statues, a fountain, a jade stone pool, a pond with water lilies, a rock garden with water elements, and a boxwoods shaped like the suits in a deck of cards: hearts, diamonds, spades, and clubs. 

At the park's small beach no swimming is allowed because there's no lifeguard. You can walk the 1.3-mile easy loop trail or the quarter-mile Niering Trail, which is especially good for birdwatching. Here, Goshen Cove, salt marshes, and mudflats attract species like herons, ibis, osprey, plovers, and terns. Fly a kite in on open grassy area buoyed by ocean breezes or bring your pole and fishing license if you'd like to cast a line for striped bass, bluefish, and flounder.

The park is free to visitors with vehicles registered in Connecticut. Out-of-state visitors pay $10 on weekdays and $15 on weekends and holidays. Check the Friends of Harkness Facebook page for information on events like the kite-flying festival, plant sale, teas, and special lectures. 

After exploring the park, there are other notable things to do in Waterford. The Nobel Prize-winning playwright known best for "Long Day's Journey into Night," Eugene O'Neill lived in nearby New London and there's a nationally acclaimed arts organization named for him in Waterford. The O'Neill launched major works like "In the Heights" and "Avenue Q" and offers performances, programs, and theater-focused conferences. Adrenaline seekers can watch racing or drive personal vehicles at the New London-Waterford Speedbowl. If you're not satisfied with dipping your toes in the water at Harkness, there are two nearby beaches for swimming. Waterford Beach Park has a wide stretch of sand, and families might enjoy Eastern Point Beach, which has a playground, picnic area, and calm waters. 

The standout lodging option near Waterford is the Inn at Harbor Hill Marina in nearby Niantic. This award-winning 16-room bed and breakfast offers cozy, individually decorated suites with fireplaces, soaking tubs, and private balconies overlooking the marina and Niantic River. The inn has complimentary homemade breakfast and free Wi-Fi and a convenient location within walking distance to Niantic's beaches, shops, and the mile-long Niantic Bay Boardwalk. With its wraparound porches, serene gardens, and coastal charm, it's perfect for a romantic weekend or an extended seaside escape. Rates start at $269 per night. 

Other nearby Connecticut towns to explore include the under-the-radar beach town of Old Saybrook and Guilford with its cute shops and historic sites.