The Cotswolds' Highest Town Is A Charming Old-Time Market Village With Cozy Teashops And Cobbled Streets
A little way to the west of London's towering skyscrapers and blaring traffic, a verdant expanse of gently undulating countryside stretches for miles, dotted with broad trees and fluffy sheep. Known as the Cotswolds, the rolling hills of this fairytale landscape are punctuated by the church spires and golden stone cottages of enchanting towns like Castle Combe, one of the prettiest villages in England. Further north is Stow-on-the-Wold, perched on a rounded hill where an Iron Age fort once stood, and better known simply as Stow. Situated along the ancient Roman road known as the Fosse Way, this historic market town rises to an elevation of about 800 feet, making it the highest in the Cotswolds region.
Dominating the town's skyline is the tower of St. Edward's Church, an imposing Norman edifice replete with gargoyles and soaring columns. From its origins as a meeting point and modest settlement at the intersection of six roads, Stow eventually grew into an important center for the Cotswolds wool trade. Sheep merchants converged upon Stow's market square to sell their flocks at the annual town fair, a regular tradition since the 12th century. And though today the sheep may be gone, explore the winding cobbled alleys branching off the market square and you'll find quaint antique shops, gift boutiques, and cozy tearooms.
Despite its rural location, Stow has also been witness to pivotal moments of the English Civil War. In 1646, Royalist and Parliamentarian forces violently clashed in Digbeth Street down the hill from Stow's market square, and the defeated Royalists were imprisoned within the church, where a memorial plaque pays tribute to one of the fallen soldiers. Boasting such idyllic architecture and picturesque streets still echoing with memories of history, a visit to Stow will feel as though you've stepped back in time.
Sights to see and places to eat in Stow
History nerds aren't the only visitors who will be thrilled by a trip to Stow. If you're a fan of Tolkien's "Lord of the Rings" trilogy, be sure to visit the north side of St. Edward's Church for a legendary photo opportunity. Flanking the medieval entrance door are two wizened yew trees, their leafy branches forming an arch above the lintel, gnarled roots swelling majestically from the ground. This was supposedly Tolkien's inspiration for the Doors of Durin, the entrance to the Mines of Moria from the first novel. For a jaunt through Stow's historic landmarks guided by local experts, book a history walk with the Stow Civic Society. Available on Sundays from April until September, the leisurely tour consists of 11 stopping points, venturing from the market square to Digbeth Street and back to the church while learning about Stow's history and the exploits of some of the town's local characters.
After a little exploring, stop for a warm drink at The King's Arms pub, which hosted King Charles I in 1645 en route to the Battle of Naseby, or grab a bite at The Porch House (sometimes called the Royalist), one of England's oldest inns. Sumptuous mains include a range of steaks and burgers, plus healthy options like heirloom tomato salad and cauliflower wings. While waiting for your meal, be sure to check out the "witch marks" scratched above the fireplace, a superstitious talisman believed to protect against evil spirits. Toasted teacakes and a good cup of brew can be found at Lucy's Tearoom, a delightful cottage with a fantastic bay window and exposed beams. Savory bites are also available, like frittatas and fish finger sandwiches. Enjoy your tea break from the inner courtyard if the weather is pleasant.
Getting to Stow and where to stay
The great thing about the Cotswolds is despite its fairly remote location, it is mostly still reachable by public transit. Renting a car will be most convenient, as London is only a little over two hours away, but trains run regularly from London Paddington Station to Moreton-in-Marsh, where you can catch a local bus or taxi over to Stow. Travelers with adventurous ambitions will be thrilled to learn that Stow is just a 20-minute drive from Chipping Campden, another charming village and the traditional starting point for the Cotswolds Way, a "quintessentially English" hiking trail through scenic woodlands. Stow is easily doable as a day trip from London, but spending at least one night in town is guaranteed to be a magical experience of the English countryside. And fortunately, the previously mentioned establishments where you can grab a bite to eat also offer cozy beds to bunk for the night.
The King's Arms boasts a range of cozy suites, elegantly furnished in a delightful blend of medieval exposed brick and comfortable modern accents, coupled with views of the market square. Meanwhile, a stay at The Porch House is sure to be luxurious; guest rooms feature spacious feather beds, roll-top bathtubs, and exposed beam ceilings. Spend the night here and you'll feel like medieval royalty. Plus, the next morning you can tuck into a scrumptious breakfast at the restaurant, whether it's a full English, buttermilk pancakes, or eggs Florentine. Slightly more modern options are the two suites at Lucy's Tearoom, called Darjeeling and Earl Grey after classic loose-leaf teas. Both rooms feature comfy beds and rustic barn furniture, with breakfast served in the tearoom. No matter your plans, an adventure in this charming Cotswold town will feel like a fairytale.