One Of The World's Best Redwood Drives Is An Underrated California Road Through Otherworldly Scenery

It's not a stretch to liken the groves of Redwood National and State Parks to open-air cathedrals. Imagine: A sunlit day finds you beneath 200-year-old trees whose towering branches interlink overhead like the Gothic arches of Notre Dame. Golden light dances through a misty fog that filters the trees' shadows and disperses a celestial glow. Not a sound can be heard, save the occasional rustle of a leaf or the distant call of a jay or warbler. And, of course, the rev of your engine, since you're driving down Howland Hill Road.

Located in Northern California's Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, this unpaved 6-mile route has been known to steal the breath of visitors, despite being a complete unknown to anyone who's not navigated its single lane for themselves. Surrounded by prehistoric ferns, hills and ravines, and towering redwoods, you might imagine a dinosaur or ogre emerging from around the bend as you travel ever deeper into the woods. According to those who've seen it, the combined sense of beauty and adventure makes Howland Hill Road rival some of the world's most famous scenic routes.

Built in 1887, Howland Hill Road first served stagecoaches traveling from Crescent City (which today is one of the largest cities on California's redwoods coast) northeast to Grants Pass in Oregon. Back in those days, the road was covered in dirt and gravel, a tradition which the national park has preserved over time (meaning RVs and oversized vehicles should avoid going this way). California considered turning it into a four-lane road in the 1960s, but luckily the highway was built elsewhere, preserving this little slice of paradise as a quieter, scenic route — comparable to a forest bath on wheels.

While mostly narrow, the road does include frequent pullouts for passing vehicles, given it services two-way traffic, but these are also perfect for photographing your surroundings or taking a quiet moment in nature. While stopped, you may have a better chance of spotting majestic Roosevelt elk, bright yellow banana slugs, and the scarlet crest of the pileated woodpecker. Avid hikers should also be prepared to stop and walk the Boy Scout Tree Trail, located about halfway along your drive. The 6-mile out-and-back trek travels to a lovely little waterfall and sports a prominent "FernGully" atmosphere.

Howland Hill Road originates in Crescent City, intersecting with Elk Valley Road near the Park City Superette bus stop. However, the scenic drive itself starts 1 mile east, just beyond Elk Valley Tribal Cemetery. The road is accessible from US-101 to the south or US-199 to the north. It's recommended to avoid driving in winter and during or after heavy rain, since the surface is loose. Drivers should also caution that the way might be closed during weekdays in late spring and early summer to accommodate resurfacing. Early morning and late afternoon provide the best lighting and quieter traffic — just be sure you're not out too late, as the road gets more difficult to navigate in full dark.

Since it's where the road starts, a stay overnight in Crescent City is recommended. It is, after all, the "gateway to the redwoods" (though the small California town of Willits claims the same title, more than 200 miles to the south). Crescent City offers seaside hotels, cozy bed-and-breakfasts, and plenty of vacation rentals. Unlike many national parks, the Redwood Parks do not provide hotels or lodges on its lands, but the Jedediah Smith Campground located near Howland Hill's northern entrance costs only $35, as of this publication, for both tents and RVs.