Just Outside Of Naples Is Italy's Underrated Storybook Town With Medieval Streets And World-Class Pizza

Naples is one of those cities that people either love or hate. It's busy, even hectic, streets leading some to claim that the city is dirty and dangerous. However, we think its lived-in, seaside charms (and incredible street food) are quite endearing once you get to know them. But if you do find yourself in Naples wanting to escape the chaos, then take a quick journey north to Caiazzo, a charming little town hidden amongst Campania's bucolic hills, with a warren of cobbled passageways at its heart... and one of the world's most talked about (and best) pizzerias, too.

You can reach Caiazzo via direct train from Naples, and it's equally as easy to divert from other Campania destinations like the hidden seaside villages on the Amalfi Coast. But with its small storybook old town, incredible food, and surprisingly good transport links, Caiazzo also makes a good base for exploring Naples and Campania's beautiful crowd-free Italian palaces that rival Versailles, from a quieter corner of the region.

The little Centro Storico at the heart of Caiazzo is where you'll find much of the city's charms, but look up and you'll see the impressive Caiazzo Castle sitting atop a hill looming over the town, which is worth a visit for the views over the countryside. Head up towards the castle and you'll realise just how hilly little Caiazzo is, with its steep alleyways bending into little stairways and streets lined with palms. Stop at the wonderful little Piazza Porta Vetere, a popular spot for coffee, and grab a seat on a sunny terrace to listen in on the local gossip.

Architecturally speaking, Caiazzo is similar to others in the region, but you'll find, punctuating the charming houses adorned with ornate Juliet balconies, a small collection of churches and cathedrals to visit as you walk. A highlight is the Church and Convent of Saint Francis, with its ornate neoclassical yellow facade, a Gothic vaulted ceiling, and numerous religious iconographies and paintings.

While the food scene in Caiazzo is surprisingly good, the highlight is the star pizzeria, Pepe in Grani, whose chef, Franco Pepe, is recognisable to anyone who's seen Netflix's "Chef's Table: Pizza." The pizza here is delectable, with fresh ingredients painstakingly configured to balance the coveted balance of fats, carbs, etc., that are found in the much-coveted Mediterranean diet. Intriguingly, you can order a whole pizza, of course, but Pepe in Grani also offers a wonderful 12-course tasting menu filled with Napoli and Mediterranean flavours elevated in line with chef Pepe's vision. Bookings are recommended.

Caiazzo is around 35 miles north of Naples, and while it's true that these little towns are often far off Italy's rail network, Caiazzo has a one-platform railway station with direct links to Naples. The route heads north through Campania's gentle countryside, eventually arriving in hilly Caiazzo after a 1-hour and 15-minute journey, making it feasible for a day trip from Naples or a stop on a longer journey through Italy, with, for example stops in Italian icons like the Amalfi Coast and hidden gems like stunning Gaeta, a crowd-free coastal paradise situated between Rome and Naples.

The closest airport to Caiazzo is Naples International Airport, at around 26 miles away. If you're driving, expect the route to wind through narrow countryside lanes and take approximately 43 minutes. Public transport options from the Naples Airport generally involve taking a bus towards Caserta (unless you're planning on a night in Naples) before changing to the train. The entire journey takes about two hours.