Hidden In Florida's Everglades Is A Wildly Underrated Gulf Coast Gateway City With Unique Outdoor Activities
Many people think of the Florida Everglades in terms of its endless miles of sawgrass sloughs and the national park, with the primary access points in and around Miami. But, historically, the Everglades was a collection of ecosystems that took up most of the southern half of the Florida peninsula. And, with a bit of exploring, it's easy to find places worth visiting deep inside that historic world today.
If you're on your way across the state, one place to start is the Loop Road, a hidden, uncrowded backroad route through the Everglades. But there's more to explore when you come out on the western side. A turn south on Route 29 brings you to the backwater town of Everglades City. This little burg is shrouded in the earliest settlers' Everglades lore, from centuries of tales of lawlessness to the unmatched beauty — and brutality — of the natural surroundings. The wilderness along the Gulf Coast, with its winding mangrove forests and sandy barrier islands, is easily one of the most beautiful in the Everglades.
A small town at the end of the road, Everglades City is matched only by its close neighbor, Chokoloskee, in remoteness. These aren't the sort of places you go for glitz and glamor: These places are true to their pioneer roots, with a few motels and fishing lodges, some rental properties, and miles upon miles of mangrove islands, winding saltwater creeks, and Gulf fishing at your doorstep.
Legends and adventure in Everglades City
Everglades City and Chokoloskee have always been frontier environments for outdoorsy types. Opened in 1906, Ted Smallwood's store on Chokoloskee Island was a rustic trading post for the locals. Today, the store is a museum worth visiting. It was famously the site of the 1910 death of Ed Watson. In a scene right out of a rough-and-tumble Western, Watson was accused of multiple murders and shot by a local mob. In the 1980s, tiny Everglades City was the site of even more drama. By some accounts, as much as 80 percent of the town's adult males were arrested for marijuana smuggling during DEA raids known as Operation Everglades.
Today, the two communities at the end of the road serve as a quiet and under-the-radar gateway to the wonders of the Everglades and the Ten Thousand Islands. The islands and creeks are teeming with wildlife, from fish and dolphins splashing to osprey and pelicans soaring overhead. Local marinas offer a host of fishing, airboats, and eco-tours exploring the seemingly endless mangrove islands and beautiful Gulf-side sandy beaches. At the time of this writing, the national park is in the process of rebuilding a brand-new Gulf Coast visitor center.
For paddlers looking for the ultimate adventure, Everglades City is the northern terminus of the 99-mile-long Everglades Wilderness Waterway, a weeklong adventure through one of America's most wild places. But you don't have to be that hardcore to enjoy a day on the water here. You can launch a kayak or canoe for an hour, a day, or a week. And, if all that time on the water makes you hungry, remember that you are in the "stone crab capital of the world." During the season, most of the town's restaurants and the seafood markets can hook you up with fresh-out-of-the-water claws.
Escape into the backwoods in Everglades City and Chokoloskee Island
Everglades City is a remote outpost of civilization, and Chokoloskee is even more so. They are located at the south end of State Road 29, which connects to the Tamiami Trail and I-75's Alligator Alley, South Florida's highway journey through the Everglades. It's a long drive from the nearest airport: Southwest Florida International in Fort Myers is about an hour and a half north, while Miami International is just under two hours east.
The optimum months for exploring the backwaters of the Everglades are during winter or, more accurately, the dry season. That's when the humidity is low, temperatures are not quite as hot, and the biting insects are at a manageable level. No matter what time of year you visit, be ready with some good sunblock and even better mosquito repellent. You'll want to visit during winter for two more reasons. Stone crab season runs from October through early May, and some local restaurants and businesses close during the summer.
Despite the small sizes of the two communities, Everglades City and Chokoloskee have a surprising number of accommodations. But they require you to get a bit adventurous, because there aren't any reliable or discount chains here. The typical hotel in these parts is best described as a fishing lodge, with simple rooms for nature seekers. With a 4.3-star rating, the Ivey House Adventures Hotel is the top-rated pick, while the historic Rod and Gun Club offers atmosphere and character. There are also RV resorts in both areas.