Rick Steves Says This Under-The-Radar German River Is Just As Scenic As The Rhine Without The Crowds

Finding a quiet corner of Europe free from tourists can seem impossible. Especially in the summer when visitors flock to the most overtouristed places in Europe, desperate to check off the next must-see item on their packed itineraries. 

According to travel pro Rick Steves, the key is to take it slow, make extra time to find what he calls the "back doors" into Europe. Look for smaller, off-the-beaten-path alternatives that locals prefer. What you'll find often goes beyond the stereotypes sold by tourism boards. "For Germany, it's castles, beer, and the Rhine River. This area, while pretty, also has lots of traffic, train noise, commercialism, and bus tourism," writes Rick Steves on his blog. "But nearby, you can have a similar and quieter experience along the Mosel River. The misty Mosel is what some visitors hope the Rhine will be — peaceful, sleepy, romantic villages slipped between steep vineyards and the river." 

If that sounds like your dream holiday, book a flight to Frankfurt or Cologne. Both are under a two-hour drive to the villages of the Mosel River. Alternatively, you can take the train from either city to Koblenz and hop on a regional train to explore the small towns in this valley. The ultimate river holiday, of course, is a slow cruise along the Mosel. There are a variety of boat operators that ferry between Koblenz and Trier.

Choosing which town to visit along the Mosel River can be difficult because of the sheer number of charming locations. Löf is less than a half hour's ride from Koblenz by train or car and is an excellent base for exploring the impressive castles of Thürant and Ehrenburg. Keep going along the river and there is the picture-perfect St. Castor's Church in Treis-Karden, its towers reflected in the river waters. The half-timbered houses that line the streets here seem straight out of a fairytale storybook. Tucked into a looping bend of the river, Cochem has stunning views, especially from the imperial Reichsburg Castle high on a craggy hill overlooking the valley.

Rick Steves' favorite is Beilstein, which is "where you can sit at your guest house sipping wine produced right in the valley, gazing at views of the river and distant vineyards," he wrote on his website. Follow the Mosel to Trier, a city whose ancient buildings are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Trier was once considered the "Rome of the North" in the Roman Empire and still has some of the best-preserved Roman ruins in the world. It also has some of the oldest churches in the Western world, including Trier's Cathedral of St. Peter.

Germany is best known for its beer. But if all you did was visit the beer gardens, you'd miss some of the world's best wine that grows in the Mosel valley. Fragrant Riesling wines make up 62% of the vineyards in this area. A good place to start sampling local wines is in Bernkastell-Kues at the Vinothek Wine Cultural Center, the largest cellar for Mosel wines in the world. Inside the vaulted cellars of St. Nicholas Hospital, you'll find more than 100 varieties of Mosel wines, all available for tastings with an entrance ticket. Nearby, the Dr. Loosen Winery in Bernkastell-Kues also has guest rooms available on their estate, with beautiful views over their vineyards and the Mosel River.  

Summer and Fall are the most popular seasons to visit the Mosel River Valley, as many of the villages and towns have wine festivals. The Mosel River is also one of Europe's best destinations to visit in December, however, with traditional Christmas markets setting town squares aglow. If you're looking for other "back doors" into Europe, consider a trip to Slovenia, an overlooked country that is one of Europe's most unexpected charmers.