This County In The Heart Of Sweden's South Offers Trails And Scandinavian Charm At A Slower Pace

Sweden's southernmost county of Skåne isn't likely the first place that comes to mind when you think of an arctic Scandinavian escape to the country's frigid landscapes. Unlike the country's fairytale castles, national parks, and trend-setting cities in the region of Gothenburg, Skåne's overlooked, pastoral identity works to its advantage. The pace of life is gentle here, the food is locally sourced, and the area's charm is as plentiful as the scenic trails and white-sand beaches that dot the region.

Skåne is also incredibly easy to get to, situated right across the water from Copenhagen. The 5-mile-long Øresund Bridge — centerpiece of the Nordic noir crime drama TV series "The Bridge" — connects Denmark to Malmö, the largest urban center in Skåne, which hosts its own international airport. Malmö also happens to have the highest number of pubs and restaurants per capita in all of Sweden and makes an excellent base for exploring the smaller towns of Lund and Ystad in the area. Head south for crystal-clear water and relaxing beaches, east for romantic fishing hamlets, or north for otherworldly hikes deep into evergreen forests.

Much of Skåne's laid-back feeling stems from the way it embraces the pace of nature and the seasons that define it. Hike the famous Skåneleden Trail, kayak along the southern coast, or take a breezy bike ride through idyllic farmland. Better yet, kick back with a beer and do absolutely nothing while taking in the romantic views over a bonfire. Whatever you do, don't rush — Skåne rewards an easy tempo. The region is a stellar introduction to the country's outdoor lifestyle.

If you're coming to Skåne, you can't miss the coastal gem of Österlen. During the summer, Österlen transforms into a holiday hotspot for locals, and its white sand beaches — especially Sandhammaren — are widely considered among the best in the country. Head to the villages of Skanör-Falsterbo to explore a 19-mile stretch of coast that's dotted with brightly-colored bathing huts, evoking a postcard-perfect charm. And if you want that secluded, end-of-the-world beach feel, then Rörum Beach at Knäbäckshusen is for you. Located near Stenshuvud National Park, the beach's sparse crowds, sand dunes, and pine trees are enough to make you feel like you're the only one around for miles.

Further inland, hundreds of well-maintained hiking and biking trails crisscross Skåne, winding through a diverse landscape. The most well-known is the Skåneleden Trail, extending for nearly 800 miles throughout the countryside of southern Sweden. Well-marked with orange indicators and signs, the trail is divided into six sub-trails and 113 sections, some of which take you along the coast and others that bring you to verdant beech forests inland. To give you a feel for the outdoors, Skåne's official tourism development organization created the Map of Quietude, a compilation of dozens of nature recordings from various locations known for their peaceful soundscapes, several of which are on the Skåneleden Trail.

If you prefer cycling, Skåne's meandering terrain and quiet country roads offer ideal conditions for leisurely bike rides. The Kattegattleden, Sweden's first national cycling route, follows the country's west coast, offering stunning views of the water and quaint seaside towns. Rent a bike in Helsingborg and follow the trail north to Gothenburg, passing beaches, harbors, and cafés as you go.

One of Skåne's cultural highlights is the medieval city of Lund, home to one of Sweden's oldest universities and the impressive Lund Cathedral. Lund is a vibrant student town, and if you visit in spring, you might catch the annual Walpurgis Night celebration, consisting of an evening of barbecue, singing, and bonfires. The Lund Cathedral, the most visited church in the country, impresses visitors with its towers and historic altar, dating back to 1398. While Nordic Noir tours are tourist traps you should avoid in Copenhagen, fans of the crime fiction genre might recognize the coastal town of Ystad as the setting for the popular "Wallander" series, and its cobblestone streets and pastel houses make a lovely backdrop for perusing the town's cafés and boutiques.

After exploring all day, dive into Skåne's dining scene, where farm-to-table is the rule rather than the exception. Malmö is the region's culinary hub, and plenty of restaurants here focus on their local, European roots. The two-Michelin-starred restaurant Vollmers, which specializes in Scanian recipes with a modern twist, is perhaps the best example of this. Lyran is another standout in Malmö; the cozy restaurant is known for its ever-changing vegan, vegetarian, mixed seafood, and meat dishes paired with wines or in-house non-alcoholic drinks.

To make the most of your time in Skåne, consider staying in one of the region's charming countryside cottages or boutique hotels. You're spoiled for options here, with the accommodations ranging from high-end stays on 18th-century country estates to standard chain hotels in urban centers starting around $70 a night. Summers on Skåne beaches and trails can get busy, so aim for a late spring or early autumn visit to maximize the season and minimize the crowds. If you want to partake in local traditions while enjoying frozen landscapes, you can try visiting Scandinavia during the winter, although Rick Steves might not recommend it.