South Of Prague Lies A Hidden Fairytale Town With Colorful Streets, Historic Castles, And Scenic Squares
Prague, the capital of Czechia (more commonly known as the Czech Republic), is one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. And while Prague is a standard stop on many a European sojourn, the rest of Czechia is often overlooked. This is a shame, as Czechia is one of Europe's safest countries, home to dazzling cities, fairytale castles, and friendly locals. One of the country's most underrated gems lies in the picturesque Moravia. Known for its wine and associated vineyards, Moravia is one of three historical regions within Czechia.
About a two-hour drive southeast of Prague's awe-inspiring castle, the town of Telč (pronounced "Telch") is small, with a population of just over 5,100 and an area of less than 10 square miles. However, this medieval town punches well above its weight, with a UNESCO-listed historic center, ornate pastel-hued buildings, and a requisite castle. Plus, Telč is surrounded by canal-like moats and ponds, earning it the nickname the "Moravian Venice."
Telč is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in southern Czechia
While Telč makes for an easy day trip from Prague, if you're relying on public transport, there's no direct route, so a train or bus trip will take at least four hours. Despite its diminutive size, there's plenty to see and do in Telč, and it's worth an overnight stay. If you can only squeeze in a day trip and don't want to drive, consider joining a guided tour, most of which include transport from Prague.
Telč is most famous for its triangular, traditional square, lined with gorgeous, colorful facades of historic buildings, the Zachariáše z Hradce Square. The Historic Centre of Telč was designated as a UNESCO Heritage Site in 1992, due to its well-preserved buildings, some of which date back to the Middle Ages. However, the colorful buildings are primarily gorgeous examples of Baroque or Renaissance architecture, called burgher houses, as they were once the homes of untitled, upper-class elites. Each unique facade, painted in vibrant yellows, pinks, oranges, and blues, is linked by an arcade, or passageway.
Castles, color and charm in Telč
The square is bookended by the lovely St. Jacob's Church and the Church of the Holy Spirit, as well as the famous Telč Castle, or Chateau Telč, on the north end. While the square is long, it's easily walkable, and packed with outdoor cafés (which are necessary for people-watching if the weather cooperates), boutiques, and important buildings like the town hall. As you venture into the city toward the castle, you'll also enter through part of the old city walls, which date back to the 14th century.
Chateau Telč is a treasure trove, both in architecture and in content. Originally a Gothic castle that was transformed under new ownership in the 16th century, it's considered an excellent example of Moravian Renaissance architecture. Parts of the castle, like the lush grounds, can be visited on your own with the purchase of a ticket (around $10 at the time of this writing) while certain areas of the castle — like the long Golden Hall or the intriguing African Hall, full of hunting specimens from former owners — are visible by tour only.
After exploring the castle, climb the tower at the Church of St. Jacob for a panoramic view of the town. For a completely different Telč experience, head below the beautiful streets to the Telč Underground, a series of passageways tunneled under the main square that connect to the castle's cellars. Take a guided tour to discover the history of the town and these winding tunnels — but beware, they can feel claustrophobic! Before leaving the country, check out the quaint fairytale town of Český Krumlov that Rick Steves says is the epitome of small-town Europe.