Europe's Long-Distance Cross-Border Trail Lets You Hike Between Albania, Kosovo, And Montenegro

Day-hikes are nice and everything, but have you ever dreamt of spending 1.5 weeks traveling on foot across mountain ranges and international borders, "Lord of the Rings" style? Well, you can do just this (and very affordably, we might add), through one of the most up-and-coming European tourism regions: the Western Balkans. Along the almost 120-mile Peaks of the Balkans trail, one can hike between mountain villages, stay with local shepherds, ascend stunning alpine peaks, and take dips in glacial lakes all along a 10-day circuit through several national parks.

The mountain range in question is known as the Accursed Mountains, a less-crowded alternative to the Italian Dolomites that serves as a natural border, crossing the nations of Albania, Kosovo, and Montenegro. The terrain can be challenging at times, as some sections are steep and rugged, requiring decent fitness, but every effort is rewarded with spectacular views. While guided group tours are available and running regularly, it is possible to hike with a personal guide, a trekking partner, or even to go solo on a self-guided tour, as I did. The trail is marked and established well, though having a copy of a guidebook is recommended.

The best place to start the Peaks of the Balkans circuit depends on which country you find yourself in, as it is possible to begin and end the trail from the same spot. In Albania, Shkodra is the best place to start, as transfers to Theth are available every morning. In Kosovo, you'll want to start in Peja. And in Montenegro, you'll want to start in the town of Plav, which is accessible by car or bus from Podgorica.

Each stage of the trail is a little bit different. During the Albanian stages, you can be sure to glimpse many of the concrete bunkers that have contributed to the country's reputation as the "North Korea of Europe." While Kosovo has some of the most gorgeous views, many sections of the trail have been converted to tarmac roads, so hikers decide to either skip these stages altogether or take car transfers in between villages to avoid these sections. Kosovo is one of the most wildly underrated destinations in Europe, and these stages are a lot less trafficked in terms of crowds. In Montenegro, you'll encounter the biggest overnight destination by far: the town of Plav. You'll also travel through valleys that are home to many ethnic Albanians, particularly Vusanje.

Given that the word "peaks" is in the name of the trail, a big allure to the experience is the ability to take some side treks to ascend some of the highest mountains in the region. If starting in Albania, after reaching the village of Doberdol, trekkers can take an extra day to cross into Kosovo and ascend Gjeravica, the nation's highest peak, standing upwards of 8,700 feet. The following day, on the trek to Milishevc, travelers can ascend Mount Trekufiri, also known as the "Three Borders Peak," because it shares a border with all three countries along the trail.

The best months to hike the Peaks of the Balkans are late June until mid-October, as spring snow may result in some of the high passes being problematic for those who are not well equipped or less experienced in mountaineering. Also, some of the guesthouses and shepherd huts will likely not be open as early as May, as many of these are seasonal settlements. 

As the Peaks of the Balkans Trail crosses international borders, it is mandatory to work with a travel agency to obtain permits for entering each of the countries on foot. If you hire a guide, they likely include this service as part of the package. Believe it or not, these remote high passes have no official checkpoints or patrols, and occasionally are only marked by a heavy stone with engravings in Albanian. Often, you can't even tell that you are walking an international boundary. Occasionally, there are patrols, but in the 12 days I spent on the trail, my passport was never checked. 

At the time of writing, the cost for the hiking trip averaged about 40 euros (about $45) per day, accounting for a mid-range experience, without a guide. Keep in mind that ATMs are not available along the trail, except for in Plav, so be sure to bring enough cash for emergencies, a treat-yourself night, or a cab to take a break for the day.