The French Riviera Town That's A Spectacular Artistic Hub With Coastal Charm And A Thriving Café Scene

Follow the sublime beaches and glitzy marinas of the French Riviera (Côte d'Azur) south from Nice and north of Cannes, and you'll find a little outcrop of land home to the beautiful town of Antibes. This picturesque slice of the Riviera is less known than its two big name siblings, though it's nevertheless an important hub on the Riviera. While Cannes is all about the film festival, you'll find Antibes more of an artists' town, painted on numerous occasions by Picasso and described in vivid detail by F. Scott Fitzgerald. Indeed, it's here in Antibes, via parties attended by many of the Lost Generation thrown by Gerald and Sara Murphy, that the Côte d'Azur as a summer destination was born.

It's hard to believe now, with sun chairs dotted along every available stretch of beach and summery terraces laid out for busy cafes, but before the 1920s, the Riviera was little more than a winter holiday destination for wealthy British travelers escaping a harsh northern European winter. The Murphys changed all that by lounging on the beaches in 1920s Breton stripes, hosting picnics at the height of summer, and throwing parties in villas that are now 5-star hotels, like the iconic Hotel Belles Rives. The Murphys are even, probably erroneously (though nonetheless romantically), often credited with inventing the word 'sunbathing.'

Getting to Antibes is easy, with the closest international airport, the Nice Côte d'Azur Airport, less than 10 miles away and only a 22-minute drive. There isn't a train station here, but you can take a direct bus from the airport to Antibes in around 35 minutes.

Art lovers tend to flock to Antibes to visit the Musée Picasso inside the striking white stone Château Grimaldi. The chateau is where the artist worked, and it's here where you can see a bit of Antibes through Picasso's eyes via various works from his summers spent on the Riviera. As a town so instrumental in the formation of modern travel, it's perhaps no surprise that there's also a charming postcard museum in Antibes, filled with thousands of postcards from different eras and in many languages. A more modern side of Antibes is found in a growing street art collection, most of which is the result of the Coul'Heures d'Automne Festival, which has facilitated the creation and installation of 30 works of urban art across the centre of Antibes, the roads leading to the beaches, and the chic hilltops of Antibes Juan-les-Pins.

Antibes' old town is all red roofs, distant mountains, and deep blue waters when viewed from the town's ramparts. But put heel to stone to explore the streets and you'll find honey-colored alleyways scented with fresh flowers, pavement cafes, their tables topped with wine and coffee, and dusty artists' studios busy with artisans keeping the creative spirit of Antibes alive.

Antibes has plenty of restaurants, serving not just Riviera staples like fresh seafood piled on platters, but also wonderful local fare like Beignets de Fleurs de Courgettes (fried courgette/zucchini flowers) and bouillabaisse, a dish Rick Steve called "intoxicating". Additionally, there's a handful of Michelin-accredited restaurants with enough stars for a constellation dotted around the Riviera, with one star spots like Louroc in Antibes and two starred must-visit eateries like La Chèvre d'Or in the stunning fairytale village of Èze.

A walk on Antibes' glittering waterfront reveals the yacht-filled marina, the breathtaking seafront at Cap d'Antibes, and a vivid collection of beaches on which to tan, sip cocktails, and watch the world go by at a slow pace. Families enjoy the gentle waters and warm white sands at Plage de la Salis, while the Plage de la Garoupe has satiny white sands and a busy boat-filled waterfront that's popular with snorkelers. The latter also has the chic Plage Keller, a busy beachside restaurant and bar, which is best visited in the shoulder seasons to avoid the crowds.

If you're sailing in Antibes, then you can more easily take advantage of the tremendous 111 miles of coastline that line the Riviera, with discreet bays and coves in places such as Portet Cove on the south coast of Sainte Marguerite. But even if you're not a sailor, you can jump on various boat tours from Antibes to visit beaches and islands, explore across the Côte d'Azur, or find skippered boat hires and motor boats that don't require a skipper's license.

The Riviera's long coast is also a good spot for a walk, with the Cap d'Antibes providing sultry seaside strolls like the Tirepoil path, which winds through lush countryside with sublime views of Nice and the Baie des Anges. For afterwards, take a room in F. Scott & Zelda Fitzgerald's' approved Hotel du Cap Eden Roc (the hotel used to keep a wing open for the pair in the summer), whose stunning views over the inky waters of the Cap d'Antibes can soothe even the achiest of feet.