England's Under-The-Radar Fishing Village Brims With Quaint Cottages And Endless Seaside Charm
Although London may have been voted "the world's best city" several years in a row, the rest of England glitters with hidden gems that often go overlooked by travelers. Despite travel expert Rick Steves declaring all of the United Kingdom as one of his least favourite places in Europe, the country is a dazzling tapestry of fantastic towns and cozy villages beckoning travelers to stop by, like this old market village boasting cozy teashops and cobbled streets.
If you've been looking for a seaside destination with few crowds, look no further than the balmy climes of England's southwestern county of Cornwall, where you'll find a quaint fishing village called Polperro. A romantic postcard of delightful stone cottages huddled against rocky crags and green hillocks, with cliffside paths and a view of the boats bobbing in the harbor, Polperro is the perfect coastal getaway.
Get lost wandering Polperro's picturesque alleyways, absorbing the historic charm as you go. The village is tucked within a small cove that shelters the harbor from the expanse of the English Channel, and during the 1700s this furtive entry point attracted all kinds of smugglers trying to avoid heavy taxes. Boats returning from France would arrive ashore in Polperro with a contraband cargo of tobacco, rum, and gin, along with mounds of salt that were crucial to the villagers for preserving their fish. The drunken sailors may be long gone, but you can still learn all about Polperro's scandalous past at the Heritage Museum of Smuggling and Fishing, which also has an adjoining tearoom for a quick snack break before you head off to explore the pebbly beach and find a hearty meal.
Museums, outdoor activities, and places to eat in Polperro
If you're only in Polperro on a day trip, then you'll want to explore as much of the dramatic Cornish coastline as you can. Head straight to Spy House Point, where a small lighthouse guards the cliff just a 10-minute walk east of the village. Enjoy sweeping views of the waves crashing against the rocks, with a panorama of the village down below. From there, hike along the South West Coast Path, a picturesque walking trail dotted with rock pools, beaches, and smugglers' coves. If you don't feel like tiring out your feet, jump aboard one of the half-hour cruises with Polperro Boat Trips, operating right at the village's beach. Picture yourself as an old-time smuggler as you drift along the cliffs and crags, and keep your eyes out for local wildlife like cormorants, seals, and even dolphins.
For travelers aiming to linger on Polperro's shores a little longer, a stop at the Museum of Smuggling is a must. Though small, the exhibits are an overflowing treasure trove of historic artifacts like nautical equipment and cannonballs, models of old ships, and dioramas of domestic life in a fishing village shaped by smuggling activity.
All that adventuring and seafaring will no doubt leave you feeling peckish, so head over to The Blue Peter Inn for a spot of grub. A quaint cottage right on the waterfront, the inn's crackling fireplace and exposed beams envelop you in a warm, 18th-century atmosphere. Tuck in to pub favorites like fish and chips with a side of mushy peas, seafood platters, and crispy squid. Grab cocktails at The Pallace right next door, or warm up with crab bisque and scampi at The Three Pilchards, said to be the oldest pub in the village.
Getting to Polperro and where to stay
From Paddington Station in London, trains depart regularly for Looe, the closest station to Polperro, taking just over four hours (with one change at Liskeard). Then, from Looe, you can hop on the 537 Bus line for the remaining 25 minutes to Polperro. Driving, however, would be an ideal way to get there, as you'll have the advantage of fantastic coastal views as you approach the village. If you're already exploring other towns in Cornwall, then Polperro is great for a day trip — but spending the night will be perfect for soaking up the seaside village atmosphere.
A great accommodation option is The Cottage Bed & Breakfast, set within a historic building overlooking the harbor. The property offers a terrace for enjoying sea views, plus a garden, lounge, and coffee shop, while breakfast options include a full English or Irish platter, continental, as well as vegan and vegetarian choices. Guest rooms are cozily furnished and feature beamed ceilings for the ultimate English cottage experience. The Crumplehorn Inn & Mill is another charming abode, a family-run business that comes with its own restaurant and bar, plus suites with comfortable beds and private bathrooms.
For more of a holiday apartment stay, try the Crow's Nest, a five-minute walk from the beach. The bright and airy apartments here provide excellent vistas of the craggy coastline and village down below, with the benefit of modern amenities, hardwood floors, and a private rooftop terrace for outdoor dining. Apartments come with two bedrooms, a cozy living space with a TV, plus board games and puzzles, making it perfect for a family trip. With such stunning coastal landscapes and exciting attractions, a visit to this charming Cornish fishing village will be a heartwarming memory.