Portugal's Best-Kept Secret Is A Hidden Beach Cove For Seclusion And Incredible Beauty On Lisbon's Coast
Portugal is not only one of the oldest nations in Europe, but also a long-standing favorite among travelers. The country boasts an incredibly low crime rate, mild climate throughout the year, a capital city that feels like Europe's San Francisco, and a thriving culinary scene that has made Lisbon one of Europe's best foodie destinations, according to Rick Steves. Yet, perhaps unexpectedly, you don't have to venture far from the city to find places that have managed to preserve a serene, almost sacred aura, where the frantic pace of tourism seems worlds away.
Take Praia da Ursa — "Bear Beach" in English. A secluded stretch of fine, golden sand bathed by the crisp, azure waters of the Atlantic, located less than an hour's drive from the capital and about 30 minutes from the picturesque town of Sintra, yet still relatively untouched by mainstream routes. The beach is guarded by ancient rock formations sculpted over the centuries by the unyielding force of wind and waves. Arm yourself with a little imagination, and you might just spot the shape of a mother bear and her cub, which gives this magical place its name. The only catch? Getting there might involve some huffing, puffing, and a sturdy pair of shoes.
Getting to Praia da Ursa
While Praia da Ursa is widely acknowledged as one of the most beautiful beaches in Europe, getting there is certainly not an easy feat, especially if you are not properly equipped or are traveling with young children. The walk takes around 30 to 45 minutes each way, depending on your pace, starting near the iconic lighthouse in Cabo da Roca, the westernmost point in mainland Europe, and then winding downhill along a dusty trail flanked by wild shrubs and the occasional rocks to scramble over. However, once there, the effort is more than handsomely rewarded by what awaits at the end — nature in its wildest, rawest, and purest form.
This also means no amenities, including restrooms, lifeguards, or food vendors. Make sure to bring plenty of water and snacks for the hike, and be prepared to carry out all your trash. The Atlantic Ocean here can be quite cold and roughdue to strong currents, making swimming potentially unsafe — especially for inexperienced swimmers and children.
If reaching Praia da Ursa seems too challenging, the stunning stretch of coastline running along the nearby Serra de Sintra offers some great family-friendly options that are more accessible, yet still retain a somewhat intimate charm. Praia da Adraga, a local's favorite, is about a 20-minute drive from Sintra. The towering cliffs create a natural shield against the oceanic winds, which can be a nuisance if you're trying to relax on the sand or read a good book. Another excellent option is Praia das Maçãs, connected to the nearby town of Sintra via the nostalgic 1930s red tram.
Sintra, a fairy tale village in the heart of Portugal
If you're not in the mood to spend the day at the beach or are simply looking for a change of scenery, Praia da Ursa's surrounding countryside harbors some unexpected treasures that are well worth adding to your travel plans. On top of the list is Sintra, a timeless fairytale town with otherworldly palaces and enchanting gardens.
Once Lord Byron's "Garden of Eden" and the favorite retreat of monarchs and royalty, today this picturesque 30,000-inhabitant town, part of a larger municipality of the same name, is one of the most sought-after destinations in the country — and for all the good reasons. Colors burst forth everywhere, from the lush, verdant hills surrounding the town to the vibrant reds and yellows of the eclectic Palácio Nacional da Pena, a display of architectural virtuosity seamlessly blending the romantic, whimsical features of neo-Renaissance and neo-Manueline styles with distinctive neo-Gothic and neo-Islamic influences.
Quinta da Regaleira's inverted tower seems to have been brought to life from the pages of a fairy tale, while the Moorish Castelo dos Mouros, dating back to the 8th century, offers an unparalleled view stretching from the Serra de Sintra to the Atlantic coast. On a bright, clear day, you can even spot the fishermen's village of Ericeira, Europe's unofficial surfing capital. While in town, don't forget to treat yourself to a travesseiro de Sintra, a heart of almonds and egg yolks, wrapped in a buttery, fragrant puff pastry pillow — a local take on the more famous pastel de nata, Portugal's national culinary treasure.