This Underrated City In Belgium Brings Castles And Culture Together With Stunning River Views And Artsy Charm

This underrated Belgian city, Namur, sits on a confluence of the Sambre and Meuse rivers, with multiple riverside areas beautifully ornamenting the rivers' banks. Most of these areas are historic, lined with colorful old architecture and watched over by impressive church spires and a looming castle. Other spaces are more modern, such as the Confluence riverside esplanade, which straddles both rivers at the point at which they converge and acts as a mix of a public square and a cultural space.

Namur has a distinctive, slow, and laid-back personality that is captured perfectly in sculpture at the Place d'Armes. Featuring two cartoonish men and two snails, which they keep restrained, the sculpture is a depiction of the pace of life in Namur that other Belgians joke is even slower than a snail. There are galleries, atmospheric cobbled lanes lined with cafes, a cable car that reaches the castle, and a good set of churches and museums specializing in everything from religious arts to Félicien Rops, the Namur-born artist known for his erotica-themed printworks. Interestingly, the locals will tell you that Namur is a great destination for food lovers, too, as this lovely little town is, according to local folklore, the birthplace of French Fries.

You'll find Namur in Wallonia, the southern French-speaking part of Belgium, the country Rick Steves called Europe's best-kept secret. The closest airport is Brussels Airport, about 34 miles away, and there's a direct train from Brussels to Namur that takes around 50 minutes. From Namur, other towns in Wallonia, such as the iconic Dinant with its stunning riverside architecture, the cosmopolitan cultural hub of Liège, and Durbuy, the self-proclaimed smallest city in the world, are only a short train ride away.

While there's plenty to see in Namur, there's one thing that's almost impossible to miss: the vast Citadelle de Namur. The citadel is one of Europe's largest and sits amidst 80 hectares of greenery. Within the greenery hides 7 kilometers of underground tunnels, accessible by guided tour. There are various options to reach the citadel, including a scenic cable car that flies over the Sambre River, a circular walk incorporating a leafy diversion into Jardin des Senteurs, and a local bus from the train station (line 3). From the top, expect to see far-reaching vistas over the Meuse Valley, a striking statue by Jan Fabre of a man riding a giant turtle called Searching for Utopia, and, if you visit in the winter, local guides leading atmospheric firelit walks as they recount the Citadel's fascinating 2,000-year history.

A highlight of Namur's historic architecture is the towering Belfry of Namur, a UNESCO World Heritage site constructed in 1388 as part of the defensive walls. Nearby, there's the Théâtre de Namur, an 18th-century theatre hosting various events throughout the year, and the striking St Aubin's Cathedral, home to a diocesan museum. One of the city's better museums is the Musée des Arts Anciens du Namurois, which is filled with religious relics and Renaissance art and is set within an 18th-century mansion.

If you tire of exploring the old town on foot, head to the riverside for a boat tour. There are various options, but Croisieres Namur's heated boats with live commentary are ideal for colder days. A better option for summer is the charming open-sided boats called Les Namourettes, which sail from the old town between May and September.

There are few foods as synonymous with Belgium as the humble French fry, but not many realize that Belgium's claim to these deliciously addictive fried potatoes began right here along the unsuspecting banks of Namur's rivers. Historically, locals would pluck fish from the river to fry and eat, but one particularly cold winter in 1681, the rivers froze — so they turned to fried potatoes. You'll find various spots selling fries in Namur; just look for eateries with Friterie or Frite in their names, such La Bonne Frite, who serves their fries in a well-worn interior paired with more than 10 sauce options.

If you're looking for something a bit more refined, head south along the Meuse to La Plage d'Amée for an exquisite dining experience that mixes innovative Belgian cuisine with idyllic riverside views. Cheese lovers might prefer an evening in La Plante's Michelin-starred Attablez-Vous, which, as well as offering sublime French cuisine, has a dedicated cheese cave in the heart of the restaurant. 
In the autumn, beer lovers flock to Namur for the Stout Sûre Meuse beer festival, which is held for two days each year in November as a showcase for dark and sour beers. If you're in town at any other time, order a pint of the local favourite Houppe, which is made in Namur.