Scotland's Hidden Coastal Village Between Golden Beaches And Ethereal Cliffs Offers Quirky Cafes And Charm
If you're the kind of traveler who loves coastlines that are quieter and more rugged than the glitzy rivieras of the Mediterranean, then the north coast of Scotland should be your go-to. Here, you'll find enchanting viewpoints like the Achmelvich Bay, a paradise of turquoise waters and sandy beaches, and historic villages, like Forres, a colorful Moray coast town called the "flower of Scotland." In fact, the Moray coast is especially known for having that perfectly Scottish mix of dramatic cliffs and charming villages. One village that has it all — and shares a name with its famous soup — is Cullen.
The haddock-based Cullen Skink soup is tied to an important part of Cullen's history. Back in the 17th century, Cullen gained prominence as a fishing town. An area of Cullen called Seatown includes lots of cottages and narrow lanes dating back to this era, preserving its fishing roots. At one point, the town boasted three curing houses dedicated to its specialty in the seafood realm: smoked haddock. With such an abundance of haddock, and lacking the money for other meats, some locals began to make soup with it around the late 1800s. The recipe was passed down and immortalized.
Of course, the reasons to visit Cullen go well beyond its soup (though, the soup is a hearty reason in itself). The town has a two-tiered layout, with its upper and lower parts connected by a short yet high-grade walk. The lower part sits along the bay, framed by a 19th-century viaduct that's now a footpath. In the upper part of town, you can relax at the town square, which is punctuated by a curious Mercat Cross. Here, you can browse antique shops and enjoy the famed soup at one of Cullen's charming cafés.
Stroll the waterfront and old viaduct of lower Cullen
Along the crescent that is the Cullen Bay, there are a mix of sandy and rocky beaches, surrounded by cliffs and hills. The waterfront is bordered by Seatown, the old fishing village, where you'll see rows of stone cottages. Many of the cottages have been turned into holiday rentals, but you can still wander through the old, slender lanes and notice the colorfully painted architecture of the fishermen's homes. Then, you can take a walk over the Cullen Viaduct. It's actually one of several viaducts built in the village in the late 19th century, but this one is its largest, spanning across eight arches, and offers magnificent views over the town and bay.
Down on the waterfront, start at Cullen Harbour, where you're likely to see some moored fishing boats, carrying on a 500-year-old town legacy as a fishing village. People go swimming here, sometimes even launching from the harbor wall, but note: You might be surprised to find yourself standing before a completely empty basin if you arrive at low tide, when the harbor drains. If you walk east from here, crossing a footbridge and passing a cave, there's a much bigger beach, Cullen Beach. One TripAdvisor reviewer described it as an "idyllic and surreal beach with spectacular views, both across Cullen and the ocean."
Shop crafts and try a renowned soup in upper Cullen
"Upper" and "lower" in Cullen refer not to northern and southern but, rather, different elevations. The two parts are separated by the viaducts. So, as you pass the viaducts, you can walk uphill along Seafield Street toward the upper town square. While it's also possible to drive around town, you don't need a car to get to and around Cullen. It's a stop on the service 35 bus route from Aberdeen (just under a three-hour ride), which you can fly into via Aberdeen International Airport. However, you may not want to stay in Aberdeen long, since it's one of Scotland's least-safe destinations.
You might want to stop for a moment at the patch of land by Seafield Street — it's a stunning viewpoint over Seatown and Cullen Bay with some benches. Just a few minutes further up the main road is the town square. You'll know you're there when you reach the Gothic-looking Mercat cross. Although it has stood at the center of the square since 1872, the cross was made at the end of the 1600s. While visiting the square, pop into the Rockpool Cafe, which serves an array of breakfast and lunch options, including the signature Cullen Skink.
Another shop worth checking out in town is the Cullen Antiques Centre, right past the square. It's housed in a beautiful church building and has a collection of items sourced from historic castles and manors around Scotland. Finally, close out your day with a scoop from The Ice Cream Shop. Listed as one of the best places to get ice cream in Scotland by Visit Scotland, the shop has a wide variety of flavors plus old-fashioned candy in jars.