Rick Steves Recommends This 'Quintessentially Dutch' Gem With 'Small-Town Warmth' And Easy Amsterdam Access
For a tiny, flat country, the Netherlands is absolutely packed with intriguing sites, charming cities, friendly people, and a whole lot of tulips (we're not kidding about that part, either). However, there's is so much more to the Dutch and their country beyond Amsterdam and their famous flowers. And one of these aforementioned charming cities is Haarlem. While Haarlem is considered one of the best day trips from Amsterdam, according to Rick Steves –– who tends to know his stuff. It's also a destination worthy of a little more time. As Steves notes on his website: "Cute and cozy, yet authentic and handy to the airport, Haarlem is a good home base, giving you small-town warmth overnight, with easy access to wild-and-crazy Amsterdam during the day." Amsterdam is only a 15-minute train ride from Haarlem, as well.
With its requisite canals, large historic square, and even a windmill or two, Haarlem is "quintessentially Dutch," without the crowds of Amsterdam. In Haarlem, you can sample Dutch specialties like pickled herring or poffertjes (mini pancakes), cruise the canals, bike through fields of tulips, and even visit a museum similar to the famous Anne Frank House. As a bonus, this historic market town still features two weekly markets, provides access to nearby beaches, and is the last stop on the famous Bloemencorso Flower Parade, where intricate floats made of flowers show off the best blooms each April. Quintessentially Dutch, indeed.
Highlights of Haarlem
Haarlem began life as a typical Dutch market town, and stays true to these roots. The main square, Grote Markt, which translates to "Market Square," is the literal and figurative center of Haarlem, with a history dating back over 700 years. As Rick Steves notes on another post on his website: "To enjoy a coffee or beer here, simmering in Dutch good living, is a quintessential European experience." The Grote Markt is lined with tasty cafes, including the famous Dutch coffeehouses, where you can legally imbibe in cannabis like –– or even with –– a local. It also hosts market days on Mondays and Saturdays. Tents selling everything from flowers to clothing to cheese line up in front of the historic town buildings. Rick Steves' advice for what to purchase? Flowers, of course. It is the Netherlands, after all. "Make yourself at home — buy some flowers to brighten your hotel room."
One of these historic buildings on the Grote Markt is the Town Hall, which has been the center of Haarlem's government for centuries. Also on the Grote Markt is the towering St. Bavo Church (De Grote of St. Bavokerk te Haarlem), or the "Grote Kerk" (Great Church). By local decree, no building can be taller than the Grote Kerk, making it a beautiful focal point. The church's main claim to fame is it's gigantic, ornate organ, once played by Handel and the child prodigy, Mozart.
Haarlem also makes the list of European towns with the most stunning canals, just like it's big brother, Amsterdam. A few blocks from the Grote Markt begins Haarlem's picturesque canal network, lined with historic buildings and the occasional windmill. These canals eventually lead to the North Sea Canal (Noordzeekanaal), which links Amsterdam to the sea.
Tulips, history and nature in Haarlem
One thing that makes Haarlem stand out, according to Rick Steves, is its ease. As he mentions on his blog: "In small-town Holland cultural differences are obvious and travel is easy. I see the Netherlands as a cultural wading pool that slopes gradually into the more challenging waters of central Europe." Haarlem can kick off your Dutch or European adventure and is delightful enough that you're sure to be smitten with all things Dutch.
And one of the most Dutch things is the annual tulip season. Haarlem is, in fact, one of the best destinations to witness the Netherlands bursting with tulips. Haarlem is at the edge of the renowned Dutch tulip-bulb growing region known as the Bollenstreek, gaining it the nickname "the Flower City" or "Bloemenstad." Haarlem is also the last stop of the famous Bloemencorso Flower Parade, where lavish flower floats pass through fields of tulips. The parade takes place on a Saturday in early April, and on Sunday, the intricate floats are displayed throughout Haarlem.
Some call Haarlem a "mini Amsterdam" and its not just because of the canals. Haarlem also has its own red-light district, although on a much quieter scale, as well as a similar site to Amsterdam's Anne Frank House. The Corrie ten Boom House features a hideaway for endangered Jewish people during World War II, just like the attic in the Anne Frank House. In this case, however, the ten Boom family were the ones hiding other people (not hiding themselves). Corrie is the only member of her family that survived the concentration camps and she later turned their home into a museum.
Finally, Haarlem also provides easy access to nature, especially beaches. Not far from the city (about 15 minutes by bus or car) the windswept dunes of Zuid-Kennemerland National Park, and popular beaches like Zandvoort are just an 11-minute train ride away.