Vermont's Unbelievably Charming Summer Haven Is A Waterfall Swim Hole With Little Hiking Required
In Vermont, summer isn't summer without a dip — or three — at a local swimming hole. In the hot, hazy, and humid weather that typifies the season, there's simply no better relief than pure, mountain water that months before was snow. The cold transfers, too, shocking the system on the first submergence before cooling the core, like a liquid air conditioner, to ideal temperatures. Indeed, the surrounding forest-scape that often accompanies swimming holes in Vermont make it almost mythic, as if wood sprites and nymphs are casting the glimmers and gleams into the ripples and waves.
In a mountain region home to thousands of freshwater lakes, ponds, rivers and streams, swimming holes are easy to come by. By map or mouth, recommendations come a-plenty, and several in south-central Vermont may direct you to the one at Buttermilk Falls in Okemo State Forest, 3.5 miles northwest of Ludlow, and adjacent the route known as "Vermont's Main Street." Here, Branch Brook burbles softly through the greenery before cascading over two 12-15 foot drops into pools deep enough to fully dip underwater. Buttermilk Falls contains three sections — the upper, middle, and lower falls — each of which feed main and subsidiary pools that offer lots of options to families, couples, or solos. In the lowest pool, this may also include nudists, too.
A slice of Okemo
Buttermilk Falls is one of many natural wonders in Okemo State Forest. Covering 7,637 Acres of Rutland and Windsor counties, the forest comes heavily stocked with northern hardwood with sugar maples, as well as extensive wetlands. The major highlight remains Okemo Mountain Resort, a premier ski resort not far from Boston. With 123 trails and 667 Acres of skiable terrain, it joins nearby Killington and Pico resorts to create some of the East Coast's most scenic skiing in winter. The same goes for snowshoeing, snowmobiling, cross-country skiing, and other cold-weather fun in the area.
Once the spring melt and mud disappears, hiking boots and bike tires provide the main transport on the forest trails at the resort and beyond. Particularly popular is the 3-mile Healdville Trail, which scales the summits of Okemo and Mount Holly and covers nearly 2,000 feet of elevation from the trailhead, about 5 miles west of Buttermilk Falls. Views abound along the way and reach a peak at the terminus, where a climbable fire tower unveils a 360-degree panorama of the Green Mountains that bequeathed Vermont its name. Other summer fun at Okemo includes mountain biking, golfing, and gold panning. In October, foliage takes center stage, and leaf peeping becomes the major activity.
Getting to and staying near Buttermilk Falls
As with most waterfalls in Vermont, a hike is required to reach Buttermilk. The half-mile trail starts near the parking area on Buttermilk Falls Road, off Route 103, and runs along Branch Brook. Although the path is short, be aware that the ground is rough with dirt, rocks, and rooks. Footing along the water — especially where the stones are wet — can become especially treacherous. Otherwise, well-paved roads run through the area, thanks to the popular resorts and routes. Two major airports are a two-hour drive from Buttermilk Falls: Burlington International Airport to the north and Manchester-Boston Regional Airport to the east. The nearest Amtrak stop is in Rutland, 25 miles northwest, and connects Burlington to New York City. Otherwise, public transport in the area is limited and sometimes non-existent, making a car essential.
Thanks to Buttermilk Falls proximity to major tourist areas and routes, accommodation is in ample supply. At Okemo itself, The Mountain Lodge and Jackson Gore Village host visitors any time of the year, as do a number of inns, motels, and hotels in and around Ludlow. Favorites include the wedding-friendly Echo Lake Inn, the trendy Main + Mountain, Victorian Governor's Inn, and luxury Castle Hill Resort and Spa. Those who prefer roughing it can pitch a tent or RV at numerous campsites, including in Okemo State Forest itself. In any season, remember this is rural area with unforgiving weather, abundant wildlife, and weak cell signals, so prepare accordingly.