Nevada's Burning Man And Black Rock Desert Gateway Is A Unique Town With Natural Hot Springs And Attractions

Playfully known as the "Center of the Known Universe," the town of Gerlach is home to fewer than 100 residents. Like another unique Wild West Nevada gateway town, what it lacks in size it makes up for in its unique character, welcoming visitors to the annual Burning Man Festival in the Black Rock Desert for an otherworldly week every summer. It's a major stop on the so-called "Burner Byway," which starts in Reno and ends at Black Rock City, the temporary "crucible of creativity" that becomes a temporary home base for tens of thousands of revelers each summer. Black Rock City is just 15 miles northwest of Gerlach, with the picturesque Granite Peak to the west. Just don't discount little Gerlach as a destination in its own right — for such a small town, it brims with personality.

Northwest of the Silver State's largest state monument framed by majestic mountain ranges, Gerlach was founded in 1906 along the Western Pacific Railroad route, and thanks to a nearby gypsum mine, it attracted more than 1,000 residents by the 1950s. At that time, folks could take advantage of two restaurants, a couple of motels, and five bars, but when the mine closed in 2011, the population swiftly declined and has gradually continued to do so. There's still a lot to recommend in this quirky place, though, with establishments like Miner's Club offering coffee, food, and drinks in a cozy, funky bar. 

Once you've fueled up with some good grub, head out along a mile-long art installation by local resident DeWayne "Doobie" Williams, who installed a series of freestanding sculptures and hand-carved stones along a stretch known as Guru Road between 1978 and 1992. In a state that's no stranger to uniquely named roads that offer scenic drives through otherworldly terrain, the route is known by locals as Dooby Lane. Williams' whimsical works range from philosophical phrases to an installation called the "Desert Broadcast System." It's free to visit, but you'll want to watch for muddy roads, which rut easily after heavy rains.

You also won't want to miss the legendary Black Rock Playa, the ancient floor of long-gone Lake Lahontan. A remarkably vast — and very flat — expanse of land with no vegetation of any kind, the area is transformed with artistic tents and vehicles during Burning Man, but it's a naturally incredible sight to behold any time of year. Head toward the pointed, dark landforms on the horizon, and you'll find a dirt road to a marvelous natural pool fed by hot springs, too.

A great spot to learn more about the history of Gerlach and the surrounding Black Rock Desert-High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trail National Conservation Area is a stop into Friends of Black Rock-High Rock, located on Main Street. Every year, the program hosts the annual Rendezvous, a weekend of tours, educational opportunities, and creative projects — the whole family is welcome! Visit the "Bike Bridge," an installation made from reclaimed bicycle parts, plus a series of brand new 4-by-8-foot "mini murals" installed around town, created by 10 artists in a celebration of the region.

Friends of Black Rock-High Rock also facilitates weekly nature walks around Fly Ranch on most Saturdays between April and November, along with other guided opportunities to hike and bike around the desert. A project of Burning Man's nonprofit arm, Fly Ranch is 20 miles north of Gerlach and spans a little more than 5-and-a-half square miles. Designed as a sanctuary for wildlife and native plants, it highlights the ways culture meets land use, focusing on art, science, hands-on education, and recreation. Fly Ranch also serves as a base for Burning Man projects, which include land restorations, educational retreats, and art installations made from up-cycled materials salvaged around the ranch.

If you go, don't miss the unusually stunning Fly Ranch Geyser, a multicolored spectacle of accidental engineering. The first geyser on the site was created in 1916, when residents began to dig wells for irrigation. The water was too hot, so the plan was abandoned. The wells were never plugged properly, so they kept gushing, and after decades of water flow, mineral deposits have created 6-foot-tall mounds in a stunning, elemental palette.

When it's time to get some shuteye, make your way back to town and grab a simple yet comfortable room at Bruno's Country Club & Motel, the only lodging for miles, which also features RV parking, a cafe, and a bar. If you want to get even farther out there, though, dispersed camping throughout the Black Rock Desert-High Rock Canyon Emigrant Trails National Conservation Area is a marvelous way to stargaze beneath dark skies, with cabins and developed sites available toward the northern boundary, a little more than two hours' drive north. For out-of-state visitors, the closest airport to Gerlach is the Reno-Tahoe International Airport, just under a two-hour drive away.