An Island On South Carolina's Coast Is A Charming Destination Full Of Shops, Art, And Outdoor Markets
When it comes to East Coast beaches, South Carolina is a true smorgasbord of sandy white stretches with delightful seaside towns and wild barrier islands. Some are more popular than others, but not far from Beaufort, America's happiest seaside town, one island destination goes under the radar of most beach-bound visitors. St. Helena is a stronghold of Gullah Geechee culture and a hub of activity where you can check out the shrimp docks and visit important landmarks of African American history.
Despite being a huge island of over 60 square miles in size, St. Helena is a place that feels much more relaxed than its neighbors, even the laid-back escape of Fripp Island. Located between Charleston and Savannah, Georgia, it will take you between one and two hours to drive there, but it only takes about 15 minutes if you're coming in on a day trip from Beaufort. While most people might drive straight to the other islands, there is so much to see and appreciate in St. Helena, from the markets and art galleries to the farmers' stands and delicious restaurants serving up Lowcountry fare.
Along the Civil Rights Trail
The Lowcountry has been called the most soulful coastline, and although St. Helena is not exactly right on the ocean (it's not far, though), it is on the U.S. Civil Rights Trail. Home to one of the area's most important landmarks of African American history, this area is so important in fact that it was visited five times by Dr. Martin Luther King Jr. himself to meet with local community leaders during the Civil Rights Movement. Founded in 1862, the Penn School was one of the first schools in the country built to educate freed slaves. It opened just six months before President Abraham Lincoln signed the Emancipation Proclamation.
Today it's known as the Penn Center, and it tells the story of slavery during this transformative era of the Civil War, and how St. Helena became one of the first places in the country to enable African Americans to buy land and build financial independence. During your visit, you can explore 25 historic buildings spread across the 50-acre campus. One of the best times to go is in November, when the center hosts its annual Heritage Days Celebration, during which there are presentations about Gullah culture and history, live performances, a delicious fish fry and oyster roast, and a parade.
Eating and shopping on St. Helena
Between the beaches and state parks that keep travelers in this area busy, St. Helena has a slower pace of life and some of the best-hidden gems when it comes to restaurants. The Shrimp Shack is a local institution and famous for their shrimp burgers, but you can't go wrong with Gullah Grub either, which prides itself on serving heritage specialties like gumbo, barbecue ribs, and peach cobbler. If you want to pick up some fresh ingredients for yourself, head to the Community Market at the Penn Center on the last Saturday of the month from April to December. Or you can pick your own produce — it depends on what's in season — at Dempsey Farms.
For souvenirs, don't miss MacDonald Marketplace, which doubles as a shopping trip and a small history lesson. Located inside a historic general store, this is the place to go for antiques and paintings. Additionally, the Ebry'Ting Gullah Art Gallery focuses on Gullah artists, and if you're looking for traditional crafts like sweetgrass baskets, head to the Lowcountry Store.