The Gulf Coast's Hidden Seafood Lover's Gem Is A Seaside Alabama Town Full Of Tasty Delights
A tiny Gulf Coast fishing town about 40 minutes south of Mobile, Alabama, by car is a serene escape from the city for seafood lovers and just about anyone looking to get a little closer to nature while taking in some Old South charm. Coden, Alabama, nestled up against the Mississippi border, is an ideal getaway, where visitors can bask in soft Gulf breezes, soak up some unique Alabama history, and dine on some of the freshest oysters found anywhere in America. Depe's Oysters, an oyster farming company in Coden, uses innovative technology to raise some of the plumpest and tastiest bivalves in the world, all while offering some surprising environmental benefits in the growing process.
But Coden is about more than just oysters and fresh seafood. Its history is unique — at one time, it was called the "Coney Island of the South," and guests would come from all over to stay at the grand, three-story Rolston Hotel on the shores of Portersville Bay. Here, distinguished visitors ranging from Jefferson Davis and Booker T. Washington wandered the immaculate grounds of the hotel, and 200-pound tarpon were caught by anglers right off the shore. Sadly, the hotel burned to the ground in 1927. Today, Coden and the area around nearby Bayou La Batre, is a lot like Lillian, another Alabama secret coastal community with beaches, bayside beauty, and parks.
Coden should be on every seafood lover's radar
Coden's oysters are legendary, and that's largely due to Andy DePaola, who runs Depe's Oysters and uses a patented growing system called the "Shellevator." This device actually moves the oysters up and down in the water column and improves efficiency so workers don't have to get in the water. It helps with every aspect of oyster farming and produces more uniform oysters that are more appealing at market. And, it comes with some bonus environmental benefits — the Shellevator helps create coastal islands because sand accumulates on the lee side of the operation, and those islands can help reduce coastal erosion. Additionally, every oyster, over its two-year life span, can sequester 8.36 grams of carbon from the sea. So, a Depe's oyster is both delicious and ecologically beneficial. Who doesn't love guilt-free seafood?
But Coden's seafood delights include more than just oysters. The community is home to Johnson Sea Products, which is known as a great source of crab cakes sold commercially all over America. But diners, too, can enjoy the bounty of the Gulf and Portersville Bay. Nearby Bayou La Batre, Alabama's seafood capital, offers some of the best seafood restaurants in the region, including the Bayou Seafood Company, where diners get their paws on some delicious fried shrimp and oysters, or taste a Gulf Coast delicacy — crab claws. For seafood lovers, a visit to this hidden corner of coastal Alabama is a real treat, and finding a great, fresh seafood meal won't be difficult to do.
Coden's history is tragic and colorful
The famed Rolston Hotel was built in 1907, a year after a massive hurricane blew ashore and all but destroyed the community. At the urging of the Mobile and Bayshore Railroad, cotton broker John Rolston built the stately hotel on 30 acres of ground right on Portersville Bay as a way to rebuild after the devastating storm destroyed the area's other hotels and boarding houses. The hotel was stunning. It was built near an artesian spring, and water was piped to every room in the structure. In time, the Rolston became a destination inn, and remained one until the unfortunate fire in 1927. Today, the site of the old hotel is now a bayfront park complete with a picnic area and a fishing pier.
There's still some true Southern history to be seen in and around Coden. Visitors to the area won't want to miss the chance to see the regal Bellingrath Gardens and Home, once the residence of south Alabama's first Coca-Cola bottler. Built in 1932, and opened to the public free of charge in 1934, the meticulously maintained grounds of the impressive mansion offer a walk through Southern horticulture. Just a short 12-minute drive from Coden, the gardens are simply stunning and feature everything from fountains and quiet, hidden courtyards to rows of perfectly trimmed azaleas, and even an Asian-American garden for quiet reflection. Operated as a non-profit today, the home and its gardens are a must-see, both for their history and their complex beauty. It's a secluded natural retreat that's a bit different from other Alabama outdoor attractions, like this secluded nature preserve hidden in the hills that features a tranquil canyon with waterfalls and trails. It's just one of many reasons for travelers put to put quiet Coden on their list of Alabama destinations.