This Wondrous, Windswept Washington Island Is A Secret, Intimate Gem In The Breathtaking Puget Sound

Who doesn't dream of buying their own private island to escape from it all? If that's out of reach, and the plague of overtourism ruining such destinations as Bali, Santorini, and Venice is a non-starter, book an under-the-radar island getaway. The serenity and seclusion of breezy Lummi Island in Washington's majestic Puget Sound is a siren call not to ignore. Unspoiled beaches, verdant hillsides, and never-ending glistening vistas of the Salish Sea are just a 10-minute ferry ride away from the city of Bellingham –- about 90 miles north of Seattle.

Even with only 9 square miles, this island keeps visitors entertained with kayaking and boating, hiking through the island's four nature preserves, picnicking at the beach, and exploring artists' galleries; low-key activities that can appeal to old and young alike. One activity to consider on this San Juan island is whale watching, which is regarded as one of the best destinations in Washington to see orcas. 

To enjoy Lummi Island, you'll want to have a fueled-up car since there are no gas stations on the island. Start the trip by driving your car onto the Whatcom Chief ferry at Gooseberry Point (except during the year's annual dry dock when the car ferry is in maintenance and only a passenger ferry is in service). You may have to wait to board since it's first-come, first-served. The ferry can carry about 20 cars and 100 passengers, and round-trip fares as of July 2024 are $8 for passengers and pedestrians and $15 for vehicles and drivers. It doesn't hurt to pack a lunch, but you can also hit the Islander, the island's only grocery store, for your needs.

No matter the time of year, you can enjoy the scenery of Lummi Island. However, bring bug spray to stave off mosquitoes in the summer months.  Step into nature on a visit to the Otto, Curry, Baker, and Aiston preserves managed by the Lummi Island Heritage Trust. Take the Loop Trail through the old forest of the Otto Preserve, which is an easy 1.4-mile hike when combined with three side trails to see waist-high ferns, native paper birches, and colorful mushrooms.  The steep hike of the 1.5-mile winding trail at Baker Preserve will reward out-of-breath trekkers with panoramic views of the San Juan Islands, but hikers need to check in at the trailhead before accessing it. Wide open meadows and wetlands populate the Curry Preserve, and the Inati and Deer Fern Way trails intersect at Aiston Preserve, a former gravel quarry, to guide you to the shoreline of Smuggler's Cove. 

Another way to learn about the pristine area is to book an adventure tour or workshop. Spot porpoises, bald eagles, and starfish on a 5-hour guided paddle with Moondance Sea Kayak Adventures, which includes a picnic lunch and a chance to explore caves and rocky outcroppings. 

You can also unwind on one of three public access beaches. Next to the ferry dock is Lummi Island Beach Access, where you can picnic and walk down to the rocky beach. Sunset Beach on the west side of the island is the go-to for sunsets and flying kites.  Follow the winding path through a tree tunnel behind Lummi Island Congregational Church to find Church Beach.

Although dining options aren't plentiful on this remote hideaway, the Beach Store Cafe offers charm and locally sourced fare, providing wild salmon fish and chips, square pan pizzas, and shiitake mushroom and gruyere tarts. At the Legoe Bay Reefnetter Food Truck, salmon sustainably harvested with reef net fishing is the draw, with salmon tacos and salmon chowder. Fresh food, like local produce, baked goods, and honey, is also available at the Saturday farmer's market in the summer. You can always visit Full Bloom Farm for fresh eggs and seasonally fresh cauliflower, cabbage, beets, apples, and pears.

If you're not yet ready to leave Lummi Island, you can book a stay on Airbnb for the farm's light-filled loft, which sleeps four in a queen bed and foldout couch, and provides a kitchen for cooking those fresh ingredients. Family-owned Nettles Farm Bed & Breakfast is another retreat where you can stay in the spacious farmhouse units equipped with gourmet kitchens and luxe appliances, such as a Bertello pizza oven or Big Green Egg. 

This bucolic island is a magnet for artists who open their studios for art tours during the year, where you can shop for paintings, photography, sculpture, stonework, and quilts. Another can't-miss art destination is Sculpture Woods, the grounds and studio of artist Ann Morris, home to 16 large bronze sculptures stationed throughout the forest. It's open on the first Saturday of the month and has been the site of summer musical performances. For more stress-free island getaways, visit nearby Orcas Island.