An Enchanted Fairytale Forest Lies Shrouded In Mist And Mystery On Portugal's Madeira Island
More than 75% of the places listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites are cultural — think the Colosseum, the Taj Mahal, and the Great Pyramids of Giza. But 266 locations in 115 countries are natural sites recognized for their biodiversity and beauty, including the 20 million-year-old Laurisilva of Madeira, the world's largest surviving laurel forest. It's here, on the northwestern side of the Portuguese island of Madeira, that you'll find the Vereda do Fanal, a section of the forest celebrated for its ethereal, fairytale-like landscape.
The main attraction is, of course, an expanse of til trees (Ocotea foetens), characterized by slender twisting trunks and wide, leafy crowns. Some are five centuries old, predating the discovery of the archipelago. But it's the region's misty conditions that make the woods particularly magical. Fanal is technically a cloud forest, sitting at an elevation of nearly 4,000 feet above sea level; when humid trade winds blow toward the island's rugged terrain, the warm air eventually gets stuck in the surrounding mountains. Even when the weather is sunny in other parts of the island, this area is often blanketed in fog.
Hike through an enchanted forest
Several hiking trails wind through the Vereda do Fanal, offering fantastic opportunities to explore the mythical forest. One popular option is a four-hour, one-way hike known as PR 13 – Vereda do Fanal. The difficulty level is moderate, with some sections of incline, though it's suitable for families with children. The forest scenery is spectacular along the trail, but you'll have to organize transportation carefully as it's a one-way route (it's possible to arrange taxi pick-up at the end, or simply hike back if you're up for a challenge).
Slightly shorter and easier to plan is the PR 14 – Levada dos Cedros, a three-hour loop trail that starts and ends in Fanal. It's another route that's moderate in difficulty. While making your way along the peaceful forest trail, you'll understand why it was named an official Rest and Quiet Reserve by the surrounding Madeira Natural Park. If you're more interested in photo ops than hiking, it's also possible to access the forest by walking a short distance from the Fanal Car Park near the Levada dos Cedros trailhead. Regardless of which trail you choose, be sure to check ahead for any closures that might be impacting the area.
Looking for more hiking ideas on the island? Consider a trek on Madeira's spectacular trail between two iconic peaks, one of Europe's most breathtaking hikes.
Plan your trip to Fanal
So, when's the best time to visit Fanal for optimal enchanted forest vibes? Though the weather can be hit or miss, you're more likely to experience foggy conditions in the morning, when a fine mist envelops the woods. Generally speaking, the best months for hiking on Madeira are spring and fall (specifically May through June and September through October). If you're interested in planning additional trips around trees, find out more about Italy's most biodiverse forest with Mediterranean flora, or plan a hike through a whimsical forest in Chile.
Most visitors arrive in Fanal, about an hour's drive from Funchal, by car, especially since there aren't any public transportation options available. It's also possible to see the forest on a guided hiking tour ($49 per person) or on a tour that covers the island's highlights, including the Cabo Girão Skywalk and the Lombinho waterfall ($73 per person). Camping is allowed in Fanal, though a permit is required; it's free to apply online. Basic restrooms and picnic areas are also available to visitors. But for most amenities, including food and overnight lodgings, it's easiest to stay in Funchal. Hotel Caju ($179 per night) and Sé Boutique Hotel ($174 per night) are good options in the city's old town, and nearby, you'll find many spots to sample traditional Madeiran cuisine, including Casal da Penha and Bela 5.