The Dreamy 'Garden Of Croatia' Is A Tourist-Free Region With Rolling Vineyards And Fairytale Fortresses

The picturesque northern Croatian county of Međimurje is beautifully framed between two rivers: the Mura and the Drava, with the borders of Hungary in the east and the overlooked country of Slovenia in the west. This region is not quite what you might expect from Croatia. The glittering blues of blissful beach vacation destinations like the islands of Vis are replaced with undulating hilltops, green with forests and vineyards. The landscapes are far from the usual tourist trail, punctuated by castles, peaceful rivers, and tranquil villages. 

While Međimurje is quite compact and often called the "Garden of Croatia," towns like Čakovec, home to an attractive Renaissance fortress and a lively old center, add a bit of culture to those idyllic landscapes. Active travelers can kayak on the Drava, or if you prefer to keep your feet dry, cycle along the region's 550 miles of on and off-road cycling routes. Oenophiles will find plenty to love, too, with dozens of boutique wineries scattered along the scenic Međimurska vinska cesta (Međimurje Wine Road).

The closest international airport to Međimurje is Zagreb's Franjo Tuđman International Airport at 60 miles away. From the center of the country's capital, a drive to the Međimurje region takes just over an hour. By train, you can travel from Zagreb to Čakovec, with a change in Zabok and a minimum journey time of around three hours. From Međimurje, bordering countries like Slovenia, home to a stunning lake with a fairytale-like church on a natural island, are within easy reach.

For hikers, Međimurje offers a calming escape into nature, with routes weaving through forests, vineyards, riverbanks, and rolling hills. A rewarding, though slightly taxing, route is the Međimurski Planinarski Put (Međimurje Mountain Trail), an almost 17-mile-long hike that begins in Čakovec and connects highlights like the view-laden Mohokos, Međimurje's highest peak at almost 1,130 feet high. At the top, you'll be rewarded with panoramic scenes of the Međimurje countryside and rural villages like the charming Štrigova, a good spot for cycling, as well.

Journey to Upper Međimurje and you'll find pretty hills painted with orchards, connected by trails to vineyards and intriguing sights such as the floating flour mill on the river Mura. This attraction is close to the little village of Sveti Martin na Muri and is the only replica of the traditional mills that once lined the river. Closer to the Slovenia border, you'll find the Mađerkin Breg Viewing Tower, surrounded by Međimurje's verdant wine country.

There are plenty of cycling opportunities in Međimurje, with some of the most scenic routes following the Drava and Mura rivers. Some form sections of the huge Amazon of Europe Bike Trail, which cuts an intensely picturesque path from Austria to Serbia via Croatia, Hungary, and Slovenia. A popular destination is the stunning Mura-Drava Regional Park, a UNESCO-designated biosphere reserve, spread across five counties and teeming with birdlife, rare plants, beautiful lakes, and winding riverside trails that break into sandbars and freshwater swamp forests.

Međimurje is Croatia's northernmost wine region, home to the Međimurje Wine Road, winding through sun-drenched hills punctuated with family-run wineries. The comparatively cooler northern climate and mineral-rich soil help produce crisp, acidic white wines like pušipel (local name for furmint, a grape used in the production of Hungary's celebrated, sweet Tokaji Aszú wines), pinot gris, and rhine riesling. If you're traveling to Međimurje specifically for the local grapes, a good time to visit is in May, when the Festival Urbanovo takes place across three weekends of tastings, concerts, and wine workshops.

Aside from the wine, Međimurje is renowned for its rustic food, with hearty dishes like meso 'z tiblice (preserved pork) and cold-pressed pumpkin seed oil, a local specialty with a lush, nutty flavor. And while pumpkin oil is common throughout Croatia, typically served in salads and stews, in Međimurje, it's also used in the local jaja na črno, which is essentially a fried egg topped with pumpkin oil and salt, usually eaten for breakfast.

Many of the region's best restaurants are found in Čakovec, a delightful village home to the impressive Čakovec castle (also called Zrinski Castle). There, you'll find homely restaurants like Trattoria Rustica, offering traditional fare in a laid-back setting, and Mala Hiža, set inside a beautiful 19th-century house, serving local dishes such as delicious gibanica, a shortcrust pastry dessert flavored with pumpkin.