A Charming, Crowd-Free Italian Beach Town Offers Dunes, Beaches, And Private Resort-Like Farmstays

Beautiful Fasano takes all the best bits of an Italian coastal town and combines them with the historic and laid-back charm expected of a countryside village. It's set between the glittering topaz of the Adriatic Sea and the rustic greenery of Puglia's olive-clad hills, offering not just a wonderful crowd-free beach holiday but plenty of inland nature. There are dunes in Torre Canne and quiet walks in Selva di Fasano, easily accessible from Fasano's historic center, where centuries-old churches meet narrow alleys that come to an end at little piazzas with enticing cafes with al fresco seating.

Dig a little deeper into Fasano, and you'll find ruins at Egnazia, atmospheric churches like Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta hidden in quiet alleys, and a countryside punctuated with masserie farmhouses, many of which have been transformed into luxurious retreats. Of course, as a town in Puglia, Fasano has wonderful food, too, whether sea-fresh mussels plucked from the Adriatic or slow-cooked lamb from the hills.

There are a few minor airports close to Fasano, but the closest is Brindisi Airport, about a 35-minute drive away. To reach Fasano from Brindisi Airport by public transport is a little slower, with the quickest and cheapest option being the local bus via Brindisi, which takes around 2 hours and 13 minutes. It'll cost a bit more to swap to a train from Brindisi, and the journey time will be closer to 2 hours and 30 minutes. Another option is to fly into Bari, which is only a 50-minute drive away and presents an opportunity to explore this delightful little port city and its much-loved fresh pasta.

Fasano's old town is a delight to explore on foot, with little houses overlooking cobbled streets and convivial squares. Walk the backstreets, and you'll find the 18th-century Chiesa Matrice di San Giovanni Battista (Mother Church of Saint John the Baptist), one of Fasano's main sights, its imposing facade hiding a series of paintings, a towering organ, and ornate sculptures inside. Another architectural gem is the colorful Palazzo dell'Orologio, with an ornate clock tower overlooking Piazza Ciaia.

Fasano's identity has long been shaped by the sea. And since 2011, that identity has included a proudly flown blue flag for the beaches that extend across its coast, with 19 beaches recognized across 12 miles (20km) of coastline. Indeed, the shore in Fasano boasts a striking blend of soft sands and rugged bays with shimmering clear waters. One of Fasano's most distinctive coastal destinations is Torre Canne, a seaside village with a rustic beach set within the Dune Costiere Regional Natural Park. The park is a protected area, distinctive thanks to its shifting dunes, wetlands, and a towering white lighthouse guiding ships safely along the Adriatic coast.

The food in Fasano focuses on seasonality and local ingredients plucked at their freshest. A standout dish is the beautiful Orecchiette, little folded spheres of handmade semolina pasta tossed with everything from turnip tops to red wine sauces. One of the town's best restaurants is Pentole e Provette, which serves an innovative menu focused on texture and bold flavors, but there's a playful twist to it, too, with recreations of classic Italian dishes like Panna Cotta with the addition of popcorn.

The Puglian countryside is renowned for its whitewashed homes without the crowds and costs of places like Santorini, and Fasano makes for a wonderful base to explore it all, including iconic Alberobello, which is 25 minutes away by car. Just a short distance from Fasano's old town is beautiful Selva di Fasano, which, along with wonderful views from its elevated position and walks through lush forests, has a collection of traditional Puglian trulli, houses known for their unique mortarless construction and fairytale-like conical roofs.

If you'd like to stay in one of Puglia's old masserie farmhouses, then there are two of note in Fasano. The first is Masseriola Antiche Fogge, just a few minutes' walk from Fasano's old town. Inside, you'll find vaulted ceilings, fireplaces for cool winter evenings, and a handful of rooms and suites, each with a beautiful antique Puglian aesthetic. There aren't many amenities, but there's a pool set into a convivial courtyard with sunbeds and loungers, ideal for enjoying a spritz.

The other is the stunning Masseria Torre Coccaro, a 16th-century farmhouse nestled between the old town and Fasano's gorgeous beaches. The villas are encircled by olive groves, and some have private swimming pools and delightful little gardens. Another option is just outside Fasano's old town, the impeccable Borgo Egnazia, a favorite hotel of A-list celebrities. But rather than take a farmhouse and turn it into a place to stay, Borgo Egnazia is an entire village, complete with narrow lanes colored by vines, elevated by a spa that offers olive oil massages, and the fabulous cuisine at the Michelin-starred Due Comini restaurant.