The French Riviera's Underrated Port City Has Unmatched Harbor Views, Bustling Markets, And Uncrowded Beaches

Catching the scorching sun and sea breeze of the Mediterranean from its ideal position in Provence-Côte d'Azur, the port town of Toulon has finally stepped into the limelight for its exploration-worthy sights. After holding a decades-long reputation of a boring harbor stopover at best, and a dangerous seafarers' hangout at worst, this underrated city in the heart of the French Riviera is finally ready to share its beauties.

What casts this Provençal city in the shadows is, arguably, also what constitutes the core of its appeal: its busy, blossoming port. But leave the picturesque boats and yachts aside, and you still have plenty to enjoy in Toulon, from eateries dishing up mouth-watering French delicacies to bustling fresh produce markets, and uncrowded, secluded beaches.

Toulon's position between Marseille and Nice makes it ideal as a stopover between the two. The latter is only a 90-mile drive away or an hour and a half on the fast train (TGV) from Nice to Toulon. You can then proceed directly onwards to Marseille, located further down in the Côte d'Azur, by hopping on the same line.

Toulon has nothing to be jealous of when compared to its sister cities, Marseille and Nice. Sure, Nice may be known as France's ultimate 'winter resort' between sea and mountains, but Toulon's position, similarly sandwiched between the Monts Toulonnais and the Ligurian sea, makes it equally appealing for aficionados of great seaside and dramatic landscapes.

A picturesque harbor view is a quintessential element of the Côte d'Azur, immortalised through countless postcards and Impressionist paintings. Far from being just a pretty spot, Toulon's port is steeped in centuries of history. Born as a naval port as early as the Roman Empire, the city kept its strategic naval role throughout WW2, and still is, to this day, the largest military port in France. You can marvel at the city's vital role in French naval history by visiting the Balaguier Fort, the magnificent entrance to the harbor, and the Royal Tower. The Fort doubles as a maritime history museum, with entry tickets costing €3/$4 per person.

Toulon is also renowned across the Var region for having not one, but several, street markets. From the Course Lafayette Market, boasting Provence deli foods, to the Mourillon Market, with its fresh vegetables, cheese, and cured meats, there is plenty of authentic local produce to shop for. After all, Provence is not only rich in beauty, but it is also home to "intoxicating" cuisine, in the words of Rick Steves. Before you plan your visit to Toulon's markets, it's worth bearing in mind that each market has its own opening times; most are open from 8 a.m. to noon and are closed on Mondays.

An undeniable perk of straying from the Riviera's hotspots is discovering a world of uncrowded, unspoiled beaches. Luckily, Toulon has plenty to share, from pebbled shores to golden, fine sand beaches. Perhaps the city's most famous beach, Mourillon, is a popular option for its unique status as a village within a city. If you're after a more secluded corner, it may be worth venturing further into the emerald-sea coves of Méjean and Magaud. These are only a short walk away from Mourillon, following the coastal path called Sentier des Douaniers. If you like the feeling of sand between your toes and are looking for a place to sunbathe, Mitre Beach has both sandy stretches ideal for relaxing and mesmerising Mediterranean surroundings for the daydreamers.

Swimming and tanning are known to awaken a modest appetite. Not to worry: you are in the right place to savor an array of delicious flavours of the French Riviera. Head to Maison Sarroche for a steaming hot pain au chocolat, a crispy camembert-filled baguette, or any indulgent baked good of your choosing. If you are ready for a gourmet immersion, look no further than Les Halles De Toulon. Located inside a beautiful art deco building, these market stalls are a highly coveted spot for foodies on the hunt for delicious French bites, from oysters to grilled cheese and steak frites.

A foodie trip in Côte d'Azur wouldn't be complete without a last stop in France's second-largest city (and a largely untouristed gem), Marseille, home to 47 Michelin guide restaurants, and an exciting cuisine hub causing ripples throughout the Mediterranean.