Hidden On Washington's Evergreen Coast Is A Serene Spot With Small Town Charm And Sumptuous Seafood
From hotspots like Long Beach, a gem that holds the record of longest (peninsula) beach in America, to unique destinations like this luxurious beach campground with an authentic Japanese spa, Washington doesn't skimp on picturesque places — especially along its thousands of miles of shoreline. Known also as the Evergreen State, it lives up to its nickname, and its expansive temperate rainforest greets rivers, bays, and the wide-open Pacific Ocean along rocky shores. A stretch that runs roughly from the southern end of North Bay, near Grays Harbor City, to where the Columbia River starts south toward Portland, you'll find the enchanting Evergreen Coast. And tucked here in Willapa Bay, don't miss the charming town of Tokeland.
The easiest way to get to Tokeland is via car, with Seattle-Tacoma International Airport and Portland International Airport each a 2.5- to 3-hour drive away. If you've been tearing up the tracks via Amtrak's Cascades or Coast Starlight routes, disembark at Centralia, the closest station to Tokeland. Rent a car and drive 78 miles along WA-6 through the scenic coastal hills until you arrive in this small town, home to about 100 residents (as of 2023).
A peaceful little community that sits on a small peninsula, Tokeland features a marina, epic seafood, historic places to stay, and a serene outlook across the bay. If you head straight to Toke Point at the very edge of town, you can see the remains of the old fishing pier and take in the view across the water. It's also a great place to toss in some crab pots without setting foot on a boat. Don't miss a stop at Nelson Crab, Inc., a family-run fish market that has been operating since 1934, featuring local "seatreats" like smoked salmon and Willapa Bay oysters.
Dip your toes in the Pacific Ocean at nearby state parks
If you're in town between Tuesday and Saturday, don't miss the Shoalwater Bay Museum, which leads you on an enriching journey through the history and culture of the Indigenous Shoalwater Bay people. The reservation is located just west of Tokeland and is where you'll also find the Shoalwater Bay Casino. Try your luck with a few of the 282 slot machines, then grab lunch or dinner there at the Bayview Cafe, followed by a pint or a glass of wine at Washaway Lounge.
Tokeland is also a fantastic jumping-off point for taking in the natural beauty of the Evergreen Coast. It's only 25 minutes south of Bottle Beach State Park, a quiet, low-cost gem with scenic shoreline, wildlife, and easy hiking, and is less than 15 minutes south of Grayland Beach State Park, where you can find great hiking, beachcombing, and camping. Even closer, at just a 10-minute drive, explore the sandy beach, birdwatching, fishing, and more at Seashore Conservation Area. And around 15 minutes to the east, fish for whitefish, trout, and salmon at the Johns River Wildlife Area, where you can also hike along a series of trails and bike paths to keep your eyes peeled for wildlife like black bears, elk, muskrats, forest grouse, shorebirds, and much more.
Check into the oldest hotel in Washington State
After a long day, whether you've got your RV in tow or are looking for something a little more stationary, check into Bayshore RV Park & Guest Suites with beachfront sites and full hookups. There's also the comfy Tradewinds on the Bay, operated by Shoalwater Bay Casino, or you can cozy up in a local landmark, the Tokeland Hotel.
Built in 1885, Tokeland Hotel is the oldest hotel in Washington, featuring 18 guest rooms and a quaint cabin located a short walk up the road. With reservation add-ons ranging from the charming to practical — like a classic campfire s'mores kit, a fresh bouquet, a monogrammed robe, or EV charging — you'll be fully refreshed for whatever the next day brings. And you won't want to miss its fantastic restaurant, The Wandering Goose, which serves seasonal dishes sourced from fresh, local ingredients.
The Wandering Goose's menu changes frequently, and many of the ingredients are sourced from the restaurant's own garden. The dining room is open for daily for breakfast and lunch between 8 a.m. and 2 p.m., then reopens for dinner from 4 p.m. to 8 p.m. Chef Heather Earnhardt, who cut her teeth in the Seattle culinary scene and has produced two cookbooks, brings Southern-style hospitality to this unique destination, collaborating with a wealth of local artisans, farmers, foragers, and vendors to offer a one-of-a-kind connection to the area.