Why Rick Steves Thinks Germany's Black Forest Is Wildly Overrated

It can be hard to figure out what's actually worth seeing in Europe and what has just earned publicity because of its historically fortified status. With years of built-up expectations, travelers often come to hyped-up sites like Stonehenge, often cited as one of the world's most disappointing monuments, only to realize the reality doesn't match the status. In a roundup of his most and least favorite places in Europe, Rick Steves, the expert travel writer and TV personality, took on some of the most disappointing destinations. Germany's Black Forest, mythologized for its misty woods, cuckoo clocks, and fairytale villages, made the short end of the list, because, as Steves wrote on his blog, it "disappoints more people than it excites."

To be clear, Steves doesn't say the Black Forest should be totally written off, but rather that it's less interesting than other regions of Germany. "If it were all Germany offered, it would be worth seeing," Steves wrote. The Black Forest doesn't offer much excitement for someone used to seeing forest landscapes, and it's far from the alpine fantasy some American travelers might be seeking out. Most people who visit the region are looking for an escape from the more urban, vibrant side of Europe. As Steves put it in another post, "The Black Forest is popular with German holiday-goers and overseas tourists looking for serious R&R." In other words, the Black Forest could still be worth a visit — if you're looking for the right thing.

The Black Forest covers more than 2,300 square miles, so while parts of it are bound to be somewhat boring, there are also gems interspersed in the region that many consider some of the best destinations you can't skip on a trip to Germany. One of Steves' most praiseworthy spots in the Black Forest is the city of Freiburg im Breisgau (often called Freiburg for short). He described it as "an untouristy college town with a distinctive sandstone cathedral and old center that manages to maintain a bit of its medieval character." While not exactly the agrarian retreat that the Black Forest is known for, Freiburg is the region's capital, and there are some lovely opportunities for hiking around the city, too. The city is overlooked by Schlossberg, a forested hill topped by a castle. The Schlossberg loop is an exquisite 2.6-mile trail that meanders up the hill for stunning, mountain-graced views over the forest and city.

In the southern part of the Black Forest, known as the Black Forest Highlands, you get the more idyllic, rolling countryside experience. The area is known for its flower-studded pastures and quiet villages, and Steves enjoyed a calm stroll here between the villages of St. Märgen and St. Peter. Spanning about five miles, Steves wrote that the "fresh-air walk along a delightful path through the bucolic Black Forest countryside, punctuated by scenic picnic benches for a memorable lunch, is the quintessential Black Forest experience."

You'll get the most out of a trip to the Black Forest if its peaceful nature and slower-paced tourism are what you're looking for. You won't find the most exhilarating landscapes, and the civilized pockets of the forest are a far cry from Germany's more lively, fun-filled cities like Berlin and Cologne. For visitors looking for something more unique, Steves suggests "mountainous southern Bavaria, or the countryside around the Rhine and Mosel rivers."

That said, the Black Forest can be a great place to unwind and get a taste of more rural German culture. Head to the Black Forest Open Air Museum, about an hour's drive from Freiburg, to gain a deeper appreciation for the region's history and traditions. There, you can see original German farmhouses dating back to the 16th century and try traditional Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, or Black Forest cake. It's a good idea to base yourself in Freiburg or Baden-Baden, both well-known cities in the region that are easy to get around and provide convenient access to the surrounding nature. The closest major airport to the Black Forest is the EuroAirport Basel-Mulhouse-Freiburg, which is about an hour away by car or airport shuttle bus from Freiburg. Baden-Baden is a bit further — closer to 2 hours by car from the airport.