The High Desert California City That Transformed Into A Charming, Trendy Destination For Endless Adventure

Salt-washed coastlines, wine country, and snowy peaks of the iconic Sierra Nevada Mountains — these are the things that often spring to mind at a mention of the fabled Golden State. But there's also desert here, hiding in the vast tracts behind the mountains, crashing eastwards to the Nevada state line. From the searing heat of Death Valley National Park to the strange lands of Joshua Tree, it's a region that holds altogether different draws, including the outback town of Bishop.

"A small town with a big backyard" — so goes the tagline for Bishop on its official website, and it's hard to argue with it. Bishop has a population of just over 3,800, but its surroundings are larger than life. The town sits on the cusp of the eastern slope of the Sierra Nevada Mountains, within striking distance of Yosemite's legendary Tioga Pass, the idyllic outdoorsy wonderland of Mammoth, the alpine lakes of the Little Lakes Valley Trail, and the eye-watering outline of Mount Whitney — and that's only scratching the surface.

One thing to note is that Bishop certainly isn't the most connected town in California. Getting here can be a journey in itself, particularly if it's winter and the convenient pass through Yosemite is closed because of snow, which typically occurs between November and May. If the passes are open, you're looking at a six-hour drive from San Francisco, just over four hours from L.A., and around three hours from Reno.

Aside from its obvious outdoorsy credentials, Bishop has a real urban buzz about it these days. The town's rise as one of California's best climbing and bouldering destinations, and as a potential pit stop on the once-in-a-lifetime Pacific Crest Trail, has brought with it a youthful crew of travelers and new residents. This has spearheaded a cool transformation that dovetails fantastically with the old-school vibes of the historic mountain community. 

Just take a walk down Main Street, where the spirit of the Old West still remains. Look out for the vintage frontispiece of the Twin Theatre, now 100 years old and counting. Be sure to visit Erick Schat's Bakkerÿ, a long-time purveyor of the original Sheepherders bread, a type of loaf that was brought to the Californian desert nearly a century ago by European farmers.

Bishop's modern flair also comes from its new independent shops and cutting-edge eateries. Want a cup of joe made with single-origin coffee beans? Not a problem. Head down to Black Sheep Coffee Roasters to sample one of the first artisan coffee houses in the Owens Valley. Mountain Rambler Brewery is just down the road, pouring powerful porters and Scottish ales that are a bit different than your typical crushables. Then there's Elevated, an authentic Sierra Nevada gift shop with a twist. Creativity abounds in this here high desert city.

Climbers, take note. Bishop is among the finest of destinations for lovers of all things ropes, harnesses, and rocks in North America. It's now up there with the rock climbing haven of Rifle Mountain Park, Colorado, and the hallowed walls of the Yosemite Valley. There are mountains of it to get through, no pun intended. Head north to the Happy and Sad Boulders, which offer nearly 200 pitches to challenge climbers of all levels. Further south, the Alabama Hills are a wonderland of climbing routes set amid picturesque filming locations in the shadow of Mount Whitney.

The fun doesn't end here. Strike out west from Bishop on CA-168 and you can drive right into the often-overlooked canyon at Bishop Creek, which offers trails to the mountains and riverside, as well as campgrounds and epic fly fishing spots. For serious hikers, the Bishop Pass Trail is an 11-mile ascent to nearly 12,000 feet above sea level, where 360-degree views of rocky summits unfold. 

After hiking and climbing, consider soothing tired muscles in the nearby hot springs. Keoughs Hot Springs are 10 minutes south of Bishop, touting naturally-fed pools that simmer at around 104 degrees Fahrenheit all year round. A more rugged experience awaits at Wild Willy's Hot Spring in Mammoth Lakes, California. Here, you can steam in cozy natural pools amid the sprawling desert, with mountain vistas swirling all around.