Paris' Elegant Hidden Suburb Brims With Greenery, Architecture, Shopping, And Art Far Off The Tourist Trail

Paris is always a good idea. Think of its iconic landmarks, romantic passageways, and the best sidewalk cafés for watching the world go by. And while there are some areas in Paris you want to avoid, Saint-Germain-en-Laye is definitely not one of them. Located 12 miles west from the capital, this vibrant city rests along the left bank of the Seine River and is the perfect gateway away from the hustle and bustle of the City of Lights –– just a 30-minute train ride from Paris Châtelet les Halles station. This area should not be confused with Saint-Germain-des-Prés, located in the 6th arrondissement of Paris. 

What makes people fall in love with Saint-Germain is its Gothic architecture, green spaces, diverse shopping experiences, and artistic spirit — all intertwined in a timeless spot cherished by both locals and tourists.  If you have a deep appreciation for history and architecture, go visit the famous Château Saint-Germain-en-Laye. The Renaissance palace established in the 12th century, served as a residence of Louis VI the Fat (his real moniker) and other French kings. Louis XIV was also born and spent the first years of his reign there before relocating to Versailles. The fortress later faced destruction, but it was saved when Napoleon III established an archaeology museum in 1862, named the Musée d'Archéologie Nationale. It's open to the public and organized into three galleries dedicated to different historical periods, showcasing ancient artifacts spanning from France's earliest settlements up to the early medieval period, including the famous sculpture head, La Dame de Brassempuoy. Built in 1827, the Greco-Roman style Church of Saint-Germain features three aisles crowned with a decorative ceiling reminiscent of the Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore — one of the must-see churches to visit in Rome.

Even though Paris is recognized as the capital of modern art, Saint-Germain-en-Laye doesn't fall short. Art lovers will appreciate the city's deep connection to the arts, and the region is home to artisans who have transformed their passion into a career. Each June, the Marché de l'Art (the Art Market) brings life and energy to the town of Saint-Germain-en-Laye, allowing visitors to experience a rich diversity of artistic expressions.

The famous French composer Claude Debussy and painter Maurice Denis lived in Saint-Germain-en-Laye, and a stroll through the old town will take you to the museums dedicated to their lives: the Musée Claude Debussy and the Musée Maurice Denis.  After being closed for more than four decades and partially reopened in 2009, the Musée Municipal de Saint-Germain-en-Laye (also known as Musée Municipal Ducastel-Vera) still holds the title of "Museum of France," boasting paintings from the 15th to the 20th centuries and a legacy of artworks left to the city by Louis-Alexandre Ducastel, thanks to the support of various artists, including the Vera brothers. In 2021, the museum was renamed the Ducastel-Vera Museum in their honor. Since 2009, part of the Vera brothers' collection has been open to the public at the Espace Paul et André Vera, showcasing their artworks. 

For a truly unique local French experience, head to L' Atelier Pièce Unique. The gallery showcases permanent exhibitions from both established and emerging talents, as well as temporary art shows. The boutique focuses on professional artist materials and provides drawing, painting, and sculpture classes. For a true TGIF vibe, join the local community after 5 p.m. for a social evening — with a cocktail in one hand and your eyes on a painting.

When you want to take a break from "the world's unfriendliest city," Saint-Germain-en-Laye offers shopping opportunities and outdoor activities that are on par with those in Paris. Once a parking area, the Place du Marché-Neuf is now a market square where the city comes alive through social meetups, fine food experiences, and public events. For some retail-therapy, head to the Le Passage Saint-Germain shopping mall or visit the renowned Pacific Wear for urban fashion and skate apparel. France is also home to many prestigious perfumes, so a trip to a fragrance boutique is a must. For a unique olfactory experience, Le Parfum en Herbe offers workshops for both adults and children, where you can create your own perfume.

What's a holiday without indulging in delicious food? Sample gourmet chocolate bars and assorted treats at Pascal le Gac, or stop by the family-run cheese store Foucher — well regarded in Saint-Germain-en-Laye and considered a true landmark. Explore Rue au Pain, a medieval street named for its role in baking history — now dotted with bakeries and pastry shops. 

To keep your feet moving while surrounded by lush greenery, the park at Château Saint-Germain-en-Laye offers extensive paths for walking in its gardens — designed by the famous Versailles gardener André Le Nôtre — and cycling around its nearby forests, like the Forêt de Saint-Germain-en-Laye. Scattered with centuries-old trees, the park was once royal grounds used for the traditional fox hunt and today is a popular leisure spot. Next to the park is the luxury Hotel Pavillon Henri IV that was once the home of the Roi Soleil and birthplace of pommes soufflées (puffy fried potatoes) and the famous Béarnaise sauce.