LA's Underrated Neighborhood Full Of Old-World Glamour Sits Quietly Between Downtown And The West Side

Stretching from the Pacific Ocean to the San Gabriel mountains, Los Angeles is a tapestry of urban landscapes patchworked into neighborhoods with distinct personalities, from the breathtaking opulent estates of Beverly Hills to the walkable charm of hidden gems like Glassell Park. Among L.A.'s most historically and culturally rich neighborhoods is West Adams, a centrally-located community adjacent to Mid-City, a sprawling area filled with colorful murals. West Adams is just west of the University of Southern California (USC) and downtown L.A., and it's roughly bordered by Pico Boulevard to the north, Figueroa Street to the east, West Boulevard to the west, and Jefferson Boulevard to the south, with West Adams Boulevard as its primary east-west artery.

In the early 20th century, film stars like Buster Keaton and Fatty Arbuckle built mansions in West Adams, making it one of L.A.'s most affluent and recognizable districts, with its picturesque streets often used as movie set backdrops. As the streetcar system expanded, West Adams became a haven for affluent Black residents. Nicknamed "Sugar Hill," it was considered "LA's first suburb." Hattie McDaniel, the first Black woman to win an Academy Award, lived in West Adam, as did blues musician Ray Charles. In the 1960s, much of the area was demolished to construct the freeway, controversially displacing many residents. Yet West Adams rebounded, becoming known for cultural landmarks like the city's first Black gay dance club, Jewel's Catch One– dubbed "the Studio 54 of the West Coast" — which remains open today.

Since the mid-2010s, West Adams has grown tremendously. In 2015, Curbed named it LA's "neighborhood of the year." However, change brings complications, and despite improvements like pedestrian pathways, some residents worry revitalization is pushing out longtime locals. Real estate prices and living costs have surged, and reports show this is disproportionately affecting communities of color.

Now home to a stand-out mix of soul food, Asian, and Mexican restaurants, West Adams is a great destination for foodies and holds its own against L.A.'s best local restaurants. Long-time favorites still anchor the neighborhood's culinary scene: Johnny's Pastrami on W. Adams, originally a simple hot dog stand, reopened as a pastrami shop and expanded to include a cocktail and vinyl bar, blending nostalgia with nightlife. On Jefferson Boulevard, Harold & Belle's, often called "the heart of L.A.," has been serving New Orleans-style Creole cuisine since 1969. Now it's run by the third-generation of Harold and Belle's family, who are active with community nonprofits to feed those in need.

One of the first new restaurants to make waves in West Adams was Alta Adams, a "California soul food" spot that twists classic Southern comfort with a West-Coast flair and became a favorite of Black Hollywood, attracting names like Issa Rae and Jay-Z. Meanwhile, pop-up concept-turned-permanent fixture CENTO perfectly illustrates the modern side of Mid-City's revitalization. The original pasta bar is notable for its hand-made pastas and a thoughtful seasonal menu, well-crafted cocktails, and a lively patio, and has added a raw bar next door.

In addition to a vibrant food scene, West Adams offers rich cultural experiences. Make an appointment to visit the Ray Charles Library & Museum, located where the music legend had his studio and creative offices. Stop by Reparations Club, a Black-owned, independent bookstore curating titles that emphasize the city's historic Black community. For something more offbeat, check out Velaslavasay Panorama, a unique theater-garden-gallery concept dedicated to "unusual visual experiences and performances." It hosts showings of 360-degree moving panoramas — a predecessor to modern cinematic form — as well as immersive, experimental performances.

West Adams has made an intentional effort to preserve its collection of historic homes, showcasing architectural styles from 20th-century Craftsmans and Victorian cottages to Queen Gothic Revival mansions, creating an eclectic aesthetic. This preservation is guided by several Historic Preservation Overlay Zones, or HPOZs, which, along with support from the West Adams Heritage Association, establish plans to help protect historic buildings and safeguard cultural resources.

Many historic homes are privately owned or repurposed by organizations, but visitors can enjoy the exteriors on a self-guided drive. Highlights include the Gordon L. McDonough House at 2532 5th Avenue, a pristine, 1908 Craftsman, and the Lucy E. Wheeler House at 2175 Cambridge Street, the only remaining Greene & Greene-designed residence in Los Angeles. You can also see Hattie McDaniel's former home at 2203 S. Harvard Boulevard. This Period Revival house became a symbol of resistance when, in 1949, white residents took their Black neighbors (including McDaniel) to court, trying to remove them from the neighborhood. A judge ruled in McDaniel's favor, setting a precedent in housing rights.

One historic home now open to the public is the Guasti Mansion at 3500 W. Adams Boulevard, now known as Peace Awareness Labyrinth and Gardens. It's an Italian Renaissance Revival palace built in the 1910s by Italian winery owner Secundo Guasti and features marble pillars and a lavish interior reportedly even visited by Mussolini. In the 1970s, the Movement of Spiritual Inner Awareness purchased and restored the property for public tours. You might also recognize some area homes from film and T.V.: The Fisher & Sons funeral home from H.B.O.'s "Six Feet Under" is currently the Filipino Federation of America, located at 2302 W. 25th Street.