Italy's Underrated, Exquisite, Colorful Village On The Riviera Offers Stage-Set Seafront Homes And Charm

The Italian Riviera — a mesmerizing stretch of coast in the region of Liguria, running from La Spezia to Ventimiglia, close to the border between Italy and France — is known all over the world for its incredible natural scenery and unmistakable Italian charm. While places like the UNESCO World Heritage-listed Portovenere, the trendy Portofino, or the five villages of the Cinque Terre (here is the Cinque Terre day trip Rick Steves recommends for striking scenery and glamorous shopping) might steal much of the spotlight, the Ligurian coastline also boasts some lesser-known gems.

Take, for example, Camogli, a 5,000-inhabitant fishing village nestled along the northwestern edge of the Portofino Peninsula, just a stone's throw from the fishing village turned resort town of Santa Margherita Ligure. The main buzz here isn't found in glamorous boutiques or curated promenades. Instead, it is in centuries-old churches, like the Baroque Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, or in the lively harbor dotted with traditional wooden fishing boats.

Though this picturesque haven may feel worlds apart from bustling city life, it is conveniently located less than a 40-minute drive from Genoa and its charming Boccadasse neighborhood, an under-the-radar seaside village with iconic pastel-colored buildings lining the scenic shores. Frequent train connections run roughly every hour, making it easy to enjoy the best of both worlds.

Camogli may not offer conventional tourist attractions, but it's a perfect place to unwind and savor the simple pleasures of life. Start the day off by enjoying a delicious cappuccino at Il Bricco Caffè on the central Via della Repubblica, traditionally enjoyed with warm, soft Genovese focaccia, followed by a refreshing morning swim in the crystalline waters of the Ligurian Sea. Or, stroll Camogli's charming streets, visiting its quaint artisan shops and bakeries. Focacceria Revello is a must-visit, renowned for serving some of the best Ligurian street food. Don't miss the farinata and panissa, both made from chickpea flour — the former, a thin and crispy baked pancake, often served with rosemary leaves and a drizzle of local extra-virgin olive oil; the latter, a golden fritter that's crunchy on the outside and irresistibly soft on the inside. 

If you feel like stretching your legs, the nearby Portofino Regional Nature Park features over 50 miles of scenic, clearly mapped hiking routes, ranging from easy, family-friendly paths like the 1-mile trail connecting Camogli to the hilltop hamlet of San Rocco, to more demanding hikes such as the ascent to Monte di Portofino. A popular day trip option is the 6.2-mile trail from Camogli to Portofino, which takes about five hours to complete. Along the way, enjoy a rejuvenating break in San Fruttuoso, located nearly halfway through the route. The historic abbey, dating back to the 10th century, provides a stunning backdrop for one of the most picturesque pebble beaches in the area.

While Camogli is beautiful in every season, some times of the year are more enjoyable than others. If you're after a relaxed atmosphere, it's best to skip July and August, when the town is at its most crowded — not to mention the heat, with temperatures often climbing to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Winter on the Golfo del Paradiso brings picturesque Christmas lights and a packed calendar of events for all ages. However, the weather can be unreliable, with cooler days and frequent rain.

The shoulder seasons, on the other hand — approximately from mid-March to early June and from mid-September to early November — offer an irresistible mix of mild weather, fewer crowds, and some of the most beloved local festivals in town. The Camogli Fish Festival is particularly popular, taking place annually on the second Sunday of May. Highlights of the event include traditional bonfires, along with a giant frying pan — the world's largest — cooking tons of fish in Piazza Colombo by the harbor. 

The town offers a good range of accommodations, from upscale hotels like Cenobio Dei Dogi to charming Airbnb options. However, a brief stay of one to two nights is often enough to fully enjoy this charming town without missing out on other nearby Riviera highlights, especially if it's your first visit to the area or you have limited time to explore.