This Melodious Trail Through The Arkansas Delta Takes Travelers Into The Heartland Of 'Authentic American Music'
Nashville may be known as the "Music City," but audiophiles know the true roots of American music run much deeper. The blues — that soulful, improvisational foundation of jazz — was born in the American South around the end of the Civil War. Rooted in the Spirituals that enslaved people sang, it evolved into its own genre as freed Black Americans spread throughout the Mississippi River Delta, working as farmers and sharecroppers, or migrating north to urban centers. The blues' lyrical and melodic themes reflected this freedom, layering hardships and triumphs in expressive harmonies.
The Mississippi Delta often gets the spotlight for its musical legacy, but across that mighty Mississippi River lies Arkansas, with a 250-mile fertile delta of its own stretching north to Tennessee. Even the soil is different across the river: Mississippi was known for cotton, whereas Arkansas still dominates the American rice industry. The Mississippi Delta produced icons like B.B. King, but Arkansas flavored its own blues — claiming stars like Albert King and Sonny Boy Williamson– blending blues with country twang to birth rockabilly, the precursor to rock 'n' roll. Helena, Arkansas, became the blues-rockabilly epicenter, thanks to the KFFA-AM King Biscuit Time radio show, which debuted in 1941 and still airs today, making it one of the longest-running radio shows in history.
Music lovers have many road trip options across the U.S. You can trace a "triangle" through premier music destinations like New Orleans, Nashville, and Memphis, and cruise through iconic country, rock, and jazz music landmarks like Dollywood, Graceland, and New Orleans. But real aficionados should head off the beaten path to Arkansas via the Delta Blues Byway, a scenic cruise up the historic Mississippi River through small towns rich in what the Arkansas Delta Byways Tourism Association dubs "authentic American music."
Start your road trip in one of the oldest cities in Arkansas
The Delta Music Ride is just one of several scenic and historic heritage trails that crisscross Arkansas. Also known as the Arkansas Delta Blues Byway, the trail isn't a straight shot. Rather, it's a tapestry of river towns, city streets, state highways, and country backroads across Eastern Arkansas, starting in Helena. Major stops along the way include the Delta Cultural Center and Johnny Cash's boyhood home.
Helena is one of the oldest cities in Arkansas and the only downtown on the Mississippi River for 300 miles, making it a fitting spot to kick off your Delta Blues journey. Start at the Delta Cultural Center, where the Delta Sounds exhibit chronicles the deep roots of blues and, of course, the longest-running, influential blues radio station, King Biscuit Time. Nearby, you'll find the Helena Museum of Phillips County, one of the state's oldest museums, rich with Native American and Civil War artifacts and, according to local lore, a ghost. Stroll down the Cherry Street Historic District, Helena's downtown, which hosts the legendary King Biscuit Blues Festival each October, featuring five stages and extra festivities like the Tour da Delta bicycle race and a BBQ contest. Spot Music Park and the murals throughout the city, and round out your visit with what some visitors tout as the best brisket ever at Delta Que & Brew.
While economic decline has significantly affected Helena, shuttering buildings and businesses, a movement is hoping to revitalize the once-vibrant community. Among the decaying stands the Kit Kat Club, a now-abandoned juke joint where famous musicians played.
Stop at Johnny Cash's boyhood home
Follow Crowley's Ridge Parkway – dubbed "one of the most scenic motorcycle rides in the state" by the official Arkansas website — as it winds through hardwood forests, farmland, Civil War battlefields, and tiny Delta towns. Keep an eye out for historical markers commemorating juke joints, roadhouses, and other historic spots. About 100 miles in, you'll arrive in Marianna, home of blues legend John Weston, where you can also take a nature break in the St. Francis National Forest.
Next, head 90 miles north to Dyess, a farming colony created during the Great Depression as part of President Franklin D. Roosevelt's New Deal programs, and where Johnny Cash spent much of his boyhood. His family home, one of the colony's few surviving structures, has been restored by Arkansas State University. The adjacent visitor center and museum feature exhibits about Cash's life and music, and the admission price includes a guided tour of the home, furnished with many original artifacts. Visitors can also enjoy the Southern Tenant Farmers Museum in nearby Tyronza. From there, head east to the charming town of Wilson and have dinner at the Wilson Cafe. The menu honors the diverse cultural and pastoral cuisine of the Delta.
Stop next in Osceola, where music legends Albert King and Willie Bloom played. While many original venues are gone, historical markers honor their legacy, and the town hosts a music festival each August. Continue east toward Jonesboro, a growing university town with an active music scene. Venues like Recovery Room, Cregeens Downtown, and Skinny J's host live music, though not always the blues. For bonus points, continue east to Newport on the Rock 'n' Roll Highway 67, where history markers will point out venues that once hosted greats like Elvis Presley and more, who were influenced by the Delta blues.